At Le Pigeon in Portland, OR, the profiteroles come with foie gras and the duck is served “moo shoo” style, with plum chutney and mushrooms. These once-unthinkable deviations from French tradition are the creations of chef Gabriel Rucker, who has won over critics and diners alike.
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Le Pigeon is part of a national shift in the definition of what makes a great French restaurant. Yes, thick sauces still exist (thank goodness), as do venerated haute cuisine kitchens like those of chef Joël Robuchon. But French cuisine has also become more accessible, and increased access to exceptional local product means that bistros like Maison Giraud in Los Angeles and brasseries like Niche in St. Louis dish out high-quality French fare in more down-to-earth environs.
“French gastronomy is based on the ingredients themselves and on detailed, careful preparation of the food,” says Robuchon. “I truly believe, as is exemplified in my restaurants around the world, that the simpler the food, the harder it is to prepare it well. You want to truly taste what it is you’re eating, and that goes back to the trend of fine ingredients.”
Technique still counts, of course, and many American chefs have spent time in France learning to flambé, sauté, and julienne, as well as about sauce preparation and a structured kitchen system in which every person plays a crucial role.
The results are on display at the best French restaurants across the U.S., from Les Nomades, in a romantic Chicago brownstone, to the outdoor patio of Anis Café & Bistro in Atlanta.
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Mélisse - Santa Monica, CA
Santa Monica may be on the beach, but Mélisse is a true fine-dining destination, with two Michelin stars and the refined look of smoky purple walls, white tablecloths, and handblown French crystal sculptures.
The dining room sets the stage for exquisitely prepared contemporary French-California cuisine that pays homage to the nearby Pacific. Onion soup with coconut and Dungeness crab, Santa Barbara prawns, and Kona abalone are just a few of chef Josiah Citrin’s dishes. The stellar wine list reflects the best of California and France.
Le Pigeon - Portland, OR
Carnivores and adventurous eaters will appreciate chef Gabriel Rucker’s creations, which add whimsy and decadence to traditional French recipes. Beef-cheek bourguignonne, rabbit-in-a-pig-blanket, and foie gras profiteroles are among the quirky edibles.
The chef’s counter puts diners ringside in the busy kitchen, and the brick-wall dining room’s three communal tables are often filled with both locals and international clientele. Le Pigeon’s first cookbook comes out in September 2013—for you try-it-at-home types.
Les Nomades - Chicago
Linger at this romantic brownstone in Streeterville for a memorable Parisian-style tête-à-tête. The restaurant’s motto declares, “A fresh expression of French cuisine,” and the menu heeds the claim with clever twists on classics such as the sautéed Hudson Valley foie gras, banana water, and Granny Smith apple purée appetizer.
The wine list includes an excellent champagne selection, worth a toast whether you’re celebrating or not. lesnomades.net
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