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Legendary Architect Oscar Niemeyer Has Died

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Oscar Niemeyer, the architect, who has died aged 104, was best known as the designer of Brasilia, the daringly futuristic capital city of Brazil completed in 1960.

Niemeyer’s buildings in Brasilia are a tour de force of sculptural and technical invention. Combining modernist geometries with lyrical fantasy, their curves and clean white lines often seem to defy structural logic.

The parliament consists of two gleaming white saucer shapes, one upturned and the other downturned; the presidential palace is supported by arched columns so slender that the building appears to float above the ground; and the city’s cathedral, supported by a ring of elegant, curving white ribs, resembles nothing so much as a crown roast of lamb.

All of these were built of poured reinforced concrete, painted white to stand out against the crisp blue Brazilian sky, and were the result of Niemeyer’s close consultation with structural engineers to push the use of free form concrete to its limits.

A short, suave-looking man with swept-back hair and a gravelly voice, Niemeyer was a diehard communist with the heart of a romantic. From 1992 to 1996 he was president of the Brazilian Communist Party.

Brasilia, set out around a stark city plan conceived by the architect Lucio Costa, was envisaged as a utopian city of the future in the mould of one of Le Corbusier’s most visionary schemes — Ville Radieuse, a city of uniform towers sitting in an open space.

Before construction began in 1957, the site of Brasilia was no more than a featureless and hostile desert without even a road — “the end of the world”, as Niemeyer described it. Within four years an entire city had been constructed.

But although Niemeyer’s communism lay at the heart of his architectural commitment, Brasilia, like many attempts to reform society through building, was only a partial success. The city never developed into a genuine mixed community, and still today is principally the home of bureaucrats who catch the plane back to Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo for the weekend.

Meanwhile, the workers who service the bureaucrats — the cooks and cleaners to whom Niemeyer was most politically sympathetic — live in shanty towns surrounding the model city.

Niemeyer himself recognised Brasilia’s shortcomings, describing it later as a city “constructed as a showcase of capitalism — everything for a few on a world stage”. But, as he pointed out, such a grand project “was a positive thing for the Brazilian people, because it gave the world the idea that we could do many things. It seemed like a miracle.”

His dictum that “architecture is invention” was amply borne out in the capital city: “When someone goes to Brasilia, I warn them: 'You may like it or you may not, but you’ll not be able to say you’ve ever seen something like it before.’ ”

Oscar Niemeyer Soares Filho was born on December 15 1907 into a middle-class family in Rio de Janeiro. His father, Oscar Niemeyer Soares, was a businessman; his mother died when he was a baby.

As a child he was regularly taken to Mass by his grandfather, a minister of the Supreme Court who nevertheless died poor, and who had a strong influence on his grandson. “I learned humanism from him,” Niemeyer recalled, “and the importance of not getting rich.”

Oscar was more interested in sport than in learning, but his love of drawing led him to study Architecture at the School of Fine Arts of the University of Brazil in Rio. Shortly before graduating in 1935, he went to work in the office of Lucio Costa, then a promising architect, five years his senior. They became friends, and Costa became his young assistant’s mentor.

The next year Niemeyer worked under Costa on designs for Brazil’s Ministry of Education and Health building, for which Le Corbusier was the consultant. The resulting skyscraper, faced with blue, louvre-like brise-soleils (sun breakers), instantly became an architectural milestone.

In 1939 Niemeyer worked with Costa to design the Brazilian Pavilion for the New York World’s Fair (Costa had won the competition to design the pavilion, but he preferred Niemeyer’s scheme, which came second, and persuaded the jury to use it instead).

Before long Niemeyer was producing his own plans. In 1941 he was given his first major commission by Juscelino Kubitschek, then mayor of Pampulha, a new suburb near Belo Horizonte in Brazil.

The resulting buildings, which included a yacht club, a restaurant and a church, showed the influence of Le Corbusier, as well as Niemeyer’s own love of free-flowing form. The hangar-like church, however, proved too adventurous for the local archbishop, who rejected it as “unfit for religious purposes” — it was 16 years before the building was consecrated.

In the late 1940s Niemeyer was one of the group of architects who collaborated on the designs for the UN buildings in New York, and it was his plan that was selected as the basis the project as a whole.

Niemeyer was a prolific designer, and hundreds of buildings were built to his designs, ranging from small roadside shrines to a vast, curved apartment hotel at Petropolis housing 5,700 families.

Brasilia came about after Juscelino Kubitschek was elected President in 1956, and vowed to keep his election promise of creating a new inland capital to open up the country’s underdeveloped interior.

In 1957, mindful of their fruitful partnership at Pampulha, he chose Niemeyer to design the buildings for the new capital. Niemeyer agreed, but proposed a national competition for the city’s master plan. Lucio Costa won the competition. Barely fours years later, the government moved to Brasilia from Rio de Janeiro.

In 1964, following a Right-wing coup in Brazil, Niemeyer’s politics forced him into exile. He returned in 1970, but then suffered from the government’s hostility until democracy was restored in 1985.

Despite this, or perhaps as a result, he was revered in Brazil. His appearance at the Sao Paolo Biennale in 1993 drew crowds of more than 80,000 people.

During his years abroad Niemeyer lived in Algeria and France, with occasional visits to his own country. He designed buildings all over Europe, though his only proposal for Britain — a plan for St Anthony’s, Oxford, in 1973 — was never constructed. He stated late in his career that “Brasilia is not the most important thing in my work. More important projects were realised abroad.”

Niemeyer created an office building for Renault in France, and designed the Mondadori editorial office in Milan and the FATA office building in Turin. In Algiers, he designed the Zoological Gardens, the University of Constantine (now Mentouri Constantine University) and the Foreign Office.

In 1996 he completed the new Museum of Modern Art at Niterói in Rio de Janeiro, an enormous white concrete saucer set “like a flower” on a concrete stem. The building turned unfashionable Niterói into the city’s most popular tourist spot.

In all, Niemeyer created more than 500 buildings, and he continued to work into extreme old age. In 2002 his Oscar Niemeyer Museum complex was opened in the city of Curitiba, Paraná. In 2003, when he was 96, the Serpentine Gallery in Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, commissioned him to design its temporary summer pavilion. In early 2011 a vast cultural centre costing £40m and designed by Niemeyer opened in northern Spain; six months later, however, it was shut for several months as regional Spanish authorities cut budgets.

Among his many awards, he received the Lenin Peace Prize in 1963, the Pritzker Prize in 1988 and the Royal Gold Medal for Architecture from the Royal Institute of British Architects in 1998. In 2001 he published a memoir, The Curves of Time.

Oscar Niemeyer married his wife Anita, with whom he had a daughter, when he was still an architecture student. She died in 2004, and in 2006 he married his longtime assistant, Vera Lucia Cabreira, who survives him.

Oscar Niemeyer, born December 15 1907, died December 5 2012

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7 Things That Are Bound To Cost More This Holiday Season

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girls, travel, on top of the world, happy, alive, free

It's hard enough to scrimp up enough discretionary cash to pay for holiday gifts. But for Ben Tischler of New York City, getting ready for the holidays also means preparing to wed his fiancee, Alicia.

It has been especially taxing since he learned that jewelry prices would be higher this season.

Click here to see what else will cost more > 

"Everything was more expensive than I expected. The jeweler told me the price of gold has skyrocketed," Tischler says. "This clearly isn't the kind of thing I can wait to buy to see if prices come back down, so I bit the bullet."

This holiday season could be a mixed bag for consumers, retail experts say. Electronics such as big-screen televisions keep going down, but if you want that laptop that turns into a tablet — Microsoft Surface, anyone? — or that fancy new camera, expect to pay a bit more than last year.

And some traditional gift items could also take more of a bite out of your wallet as stores tap into the growing trend of using well-known designers or celebrities to hawk their goods.

All in all, prices are about 2 percent higher than last holiday season, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics.

Travel

We've taken into account gifts and food, but let's not forget how you're going to get to your destination for the holidays.

If you are flying, expect a full plane and higher ticket prices.

Domestic ticket prices are up 4 percent from 2011, according to industry trade group Airlines for America.

For those thinking of traveling by car, gas has dipped some, giving a bit of relief.

But "we are still looking at historically high prices," says Heather Hunter, spokeswoman for AAA in Orlando, Fla.

She says about 300,000 more people will travel by car than last holiday season — and they are scouting for savvy ways to save money.

"They are looking for hotels that offer free Wi-Fi or a free breakfast," Hunter says.

When traveling by car, it might also mean more than just paying for fuel. It's not unusual for families to tune up the car and replace tires for the holiday trek, Cohen says.

And tires are much pricier than in the past. Cohen says tire companies are trying to make up for backroom costs, such as paying for all those lawsuits for faulty products in the last decade.

"You used to be able to buy four tires for $280, and they would mount them and balance them for free," he says. Look for these services to all cost something now.



Shoes

Looking to impress that runner in the family with a new pair of top-of-the-line sneakers? Nothing will impress the marathoner like a pair of Volts from Nike.

The running shoes look otherworldly — and so does the price: $150.

But these aren't the only pricey soles. Cohen says high-end athletic shoes across the board are more expensive.

On the opposite end of the shoe spectrum sits the women's discount dress shoe.

But don't take the word "discount" to heart. Vazquez says giving the woman in your life new shoes from the likes of Payless or DSW won't be as light on the wallet as in years past.

The reason again is the use of celebrities and the push to hike up the price point consumers are willing to pay.

As a result, even the discount brands now have a catch. They will make nice gifts, but they are not necessarily cheaper than last year.

"A lot of these budget-friendly brands have become more marketable and are using faces people know to sell their products," she says. "It's cool to wear them now."

And cool, she says, always translates into more expensive.



Digital cameras

A stalwart gift under the tree for any shutterbug is the single-lens reflex, or SLR, camera.

This is the perfect time of year to get new gear for them.

However, manufacturers such as Nikon and Canon are in a conundrum because every smartphone has a camera.

So that means digital SLR cameras this season are for a more niche crowd. These consumers are serious about their hobby.

"Since so many phones have cameras, they are manufacturing better digital cameras to compete with that to offer consumers better quality," Vazquez says.

"Many of these cameras also offer top-notch video capabilities. Camera phones can only do so much."

So, if you are going to indulge the shutterbug in your family, be ready to put down some serious bucks.

Stores such as Best Buy will package a camera with a set of lenses, a bag and other items, which also drives up the price, she says.

Prices for these high-tech SLRs can range anywhere from $500 for a Canon Rebel to more than $1,000 for a Nikon D700.



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A Bitter Donald Trump Has Banned Glenfiddich Whisky From All His Resorts

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donald trump macy's

Property magnate Donald Trump has gone to war with one of the world's largest whisky companies after it sponsored an award given to an arch critic of his controversial Scottish golf course.

In what is emerging as the battle of the billionaires, Trump said he has banned every brand of whisky sold by William Grant & Sons from his resorts and hotels after Michael Forbes, his obstinate neighbour in Aberdeenshire, was voted Top Scot in a ceremony sponsored by the distiller's leading brand, Glenfiddich.

The closest resident to Trump's golf course, Forbes won the award last week after a public vote, beating the Olympic tennis gold medallist and US Open winner Andy Murray. Trump said that decision was "an insult to both Andy Murray and Scotland itself".

Trump claimed that William Grant & Sons, which broke through the £1bn sales barrier this year and owns several of the world's most popular whiskies, including Grant's, was jealous of his own inhouse single malt whisky brand.

The distillery sold more than one million cases of Glenfiddich, but Trump continued: "Glenfiddich should be ashamed of themselves for granting this award to Forbes, just for the sake of publicity.

"Glenfiddich is upset that we created our own single malt whisky using another distillery, which offers far greater products. People at our clubs do not ask for Glenfiddich, and I make a pledge that no Trump property will ever do business with Glenfiddich or William Grant & Sons.

"I hereby call for a boycott on drinking Glenfiddich products because there is no way a result such as this could have been made by the Scottish people."

After suggesting that the voting for Forbes had been fixed by "a small group of detractors" casting multiple votes, he continued: "Glenfiddich's choice of Michael Forbes, as Top Scot, will go down as one of the great jokes ever played on the Scottish people and is a terrible embarrassment to Scotland."

William Grant & Sons gave short shrift to Trump's criticisms, which he first aired on Twitter on Tuesday, insisting it had nothing to do with the voting for the award, which Glenfiddich has sponsored for 15 years.

It had never interfered with the outcome, it said, and insisted Forbes's victory should be respected.

"We understand that there may have been some confusion and misunderstanding concerning the structure and running of the Glenfiddich Spirit of Scotland Awards," the firm said in a statement.

"Top Scot is a totally open category in which the people of Scotland can vote for whomsoever they choose and Glenfiddich has no influence on this decision. [The] Top Scot may be one of that year's category nominees or may come from any walk of life. The person receiving the greatest number of votes, cast by the people of Scotland, wins the award."

It added: "In the history of these awards, we are not aware of the Top Scot award causing any offence or upset to anyone and it is not our intention to do so now. These awards were set up to give the people of Scotland a vote and we must respect their decision."

This article originally appeared on guardian.co.uk

SEE ALSO: Take A Walk Through The Opulent Real Estate Of Donald Trump

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Your Guide To Tipping In 5 Holiday Vacation Destinations

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You’ve planned your trip within an inch of its life, from the location of your seat on the plane to the perfect dinner reservations at that place so-and-so recommended.

Your flight goes fine, you land at destination X, hop in a cab and head to your hotel. The taxi pulls up, the valet opens the door, and suddenly you’re faced with a dilemma.

Check out the tipping tips >

How much should you tip the ca bby? What’s the proper amount to tip the doorman and the bellhop?

Depending on the destination, the tipping customs can vary. To help, the team at Hopper has assembled our handy guide to gratuity.

We’ve run through the most popular travel destinations for the average American and pulled out the key rules for polite tipping.

If you frequent these locations you’ll want to take note, savvy compensation can ensure you enhanced service and friendly faces on your next stay.

Read more from Hopper Travel:

Top Las Vegas Casinos

Punta Mita Travel Snapshot

Spain Travel Snapshot

Top Caribbean Beaches

Christmas in New York

Las Vegas

In Las Vegas, cash is king, so it should be no surprise that tipping is practically an art form in this city. It starts in your cab, where taxi drivers generally receive 15% on top of the fare.

At your hotel, plan on three separate tips: one for your bellhop, maid, and the concierge. Depending on the level of service, a concierge can get upwards of $100 but in most cases $10 will do. As for the your bags and room, the average is $5-10 for you bellhop and about $1-$2 per night for the maid.

Eating out in Vegas is a must (Joel Rubichon or bust), and with great service comes a great tip; you should account for 15-20% of the bill.

If you’re headed to Vegas chances are you’ll be setting foot in a casino or two. Depending on the level of your winnings, tip accordingly to your dealer. The good news? If you are wiped clean, no  tipping is needed. Keno and Bingo runners are generally rewarded with a $1 to $2 offering.



Mexico

Americans love visiting Mexico. In fact,  34% of all outbound US travelers find their way there annually. Visitors frequent the country’s Aztec temples, sparkling beaches and luxury resorts.

At your hotel, plan on leaving 20-50 pesos per day (or $2-$4 USD) for the maid service . Bellhops get 10-20 pesos ($1-$2) on average.

If you plan on eating out, tipping in Mexico is a must. At most restaurants it is typical to round up your bill to add an additional 10-15% (think rounding ~$26 to $30).

If you drive in Mexico, the rule of thumb dictates giving your gas station attendant 5 pesos (about 50 cents). Taxi drivers don’t expect tips.

If you opt for a guided tour of Chichen Itza or any Mexican destination, plan on a 100-200 peso gratuity (8-16 dollars). This is baseline, so if your tour guide really wows you with their knowledge of Mayan architecture consider a more generous tip.

But, the question arises, should you tip in American dollars or in pesos? Although not required and most places accept US dollars, tipping in pesos is not only appreciated but a polite gesture.



Spain

Europe is also high on Americans’ places to travel, accounting for over 19% of all outbound travels each year and the Iberian peninsula remains a top destination. Spain boasts an amazing cultural legacy from the Moorish architecture of Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba to Goya’s masterpieces at the Prado in Madrid. Not to mention those tapas...

Spain, like much of Europe, is not a cheap destination (despite its current economic woes), and even after you pay for your transportation and hotel costs you can't forget to budget tipping. Leaving an extra few dollars won’t break your bank, but not leaving it could ruin a trip. No one likes awkward waiter encounters, so 5-15% will adequately compensate them. However, if your service was short of your expectations you can leave without gratuity and won't be ostracized.  

Getting around in Europe is easy. Planes, trains and automobiles are all fairly accessible, and Spain is no exception. When opting for a taxi you can take a sigh of relief, as tipping is not expected. However, to save face it is typical to round up your fare to the nearest euro (think 10.5 euros to 11).

Although in some places you might be able to get away with spending US dollars, you will want to convert your cash at the start of your trip or use a credit card. But be warned: tipping in restaurants on a card is frowned upon.



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12 Vacation Hot Spots You Never Knew Could Be So Affordable

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snorkeling vacation bad wedding giftsThis post originally appeared on SmarterTravel.

Most people dream of taking a once-in-a-lifetime vacation to somewhere far away and exotic.

Maybe it's to celebrate a special occasion like a honeymoon or an anniversary or simply to enjoy a much-needed escape from the daily grind.

No matter what, your longing doesn't have to live in fantasyland forever. Far-flung places like Tahiti, New Zealand, Bali, and Hawaii are more within reach than you might think.

Whether you've been squirreling away cash for more than a decade or are just starting to consider a trip, here are some exotic South Pacific vacations that are sure to wow. As a bonus, we've compiled some useful tips and money-saving strategies to make these dream trips a reality.

South Island, New Zealand

New Zealand's larger island has less than half of the country's population, so if you want to get away from it all, this is definitely the spot. You'll find wildlife and scenery here that's unlike anything else in the world.

Why Go: Mountains, glaciers, volcanoes, and pristine coastlines make the South Island's landscapes some of the world's most picturesque.

Skiing, scuba diving, and hiking await the adventurous, while world-famous vineyards, glamorous boutique hotels, and relaxing spas are in store for those who need some pampering.

Getting There and Finding Deals: Embrace the South Island's outdoorsy focus by renting a campervan to be both your transportation and your lodging. Rates start as low as $28 per day.

Or, experience life on a working New Zealand farm, by booking a farmstay (sheep-shearing duty is optional).

Arriving from the North Island? The most scenic way to get here is via ferry, which takes around three hours. If you're short on time and money, Jetstar Airways often has airfare deals between the two islands.



New Caledonia

Heavenly South Pacific beachscapes and Melanesian culture meet French savoir-vivre on New Caledonia, an archipelago collectivity of France.

Why Go: New Caledonia offers two vacations in one: a luxurious city escape fused with a breezy island adventure.

For a spot of French chic in the South Pacific, visitors can head to cosmopolitan Noumea, New Caledonia's largest city, where vintage boutiques, aqua spas, art galleries, and museums abound.

Then, they can retreat from the city and explore vivid blue coral lagoons, kayak to close-by uninhabited islands, or hit the beach and relax under palm trees on warm sand.

Getting There and Finding Deals: New Caledonia's flagship international airline is Aircalin, which connects the island with destinations in Japan, Korea, Australia, and New Zealand, among others.

Travelers seeking to visit a handful of South Pacific islands can save money by purchasing a Pacific air-travel pass from Aircalin.

Prices vary, but according to Travel Press, rates start at $150 per coupon. (Each coupon is valid for one travel segment.) Note that this pass isn’t currently sold in the United States. Contact Aircalin for more details.



Tahiti

Five amazing archipelagos, 118 islands, one paradise.

Tahiti is less than eight hours from Los Angeles, but it may as well be in an entirely different universe.

Why Go: The South Seas islands promise emerald waters, white-sand beaches, and, oh yeah, overwater bungalows.

Embrace leisure with a unique banana-tree-leaf body wrap, culture on a tour of small villages, or adventure on a shark-feeding expedition.

Or, simply start out the day in your overwater bungalow with breakfast delivered by canoe.

Getting There and Finding Deals: Air Tahiti Nui offers service from Los Angeles. Tahiti.com is offering a two-island vacation package that includes round-trip airfare, ferry transport between islands, daily breakfast, five nights' accommodations, and transfers from $1,999 per person.

For $450 more per person, you can upgrade to an overwater bungalow and have the ultimate Tahiti experience. Find current air-and-hotel vacation packages from a variety of providers on Tahiti-Tourisme.com.



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A Billionaire Heir To Aldi Supermarkets Has Died

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Berthold Albrecht, the billionaire heir of the cut-price supermarket chain Aldi and one of Germany's richest men, has died at the age of 58, his family announced on Friday.

Albrecht was buried last month in a private ceremony attended by close family and friends, according to full-page death notices placed by both his family and his Aldi Nord group in newspapers such as the business daily Handelsblatt.

There was no mention of the place or cause of his death.

Berthold's father and founder of the Aldi group, Theo Albrecht, died in July 2010 aged 88.

The Albrecht family is one of the richest in Germany. Berthold and his brother, also called Theo, ranked second place with a combined fortune of 16 billion euros ($20.7 billion), according to the monthly Manager Magazin.

SEE ALSO: Meet The Heirs And Heiresses To The World's Oldest Billionaires

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Knob Creek Personalized Holiday Labels

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Knob Creek Bourbon, one of our favorite brands, is once again offering its free, personalized label program for the holidays, giving fans the chance to turn the bourbon’s big, full flavor into a one-of-a-kind gift that is perfect as a stocking stuffer, host/hostess gift or present for the incredibly discerning family member (uncle, father-in-law, brother perhaps?). But this year, in addition to the standard label options, Knob Creek has taken it a step further, teaming up with celebrity chef and tastemaker, Michael Symon, to create a signature, limited-edition holiday label that incorporates the chef’s sense of style and panache. But it doesn’t end there either. In addition, anyone who orders Michael’s signature label will also receive a copy of one of the chef’s exclusive Knob Creek Bourbon holiday recipes.

But don’t wait, the deadline to order a label for guaranteed delivery in time for Christmas is today (December 7).

Ordering your own personalized holiday label is as easy as…

Go to KnobCreek.com/Labels (must be 21+ to order)

* Select your label, enter your personal message and Knob Creek will mail you your customized label.
* There are 4 different labels to choose one, including the limited-edition, signature label designed by Michael Symon.
* Once it arrives, just apply the label to a bottle of Knob Creek Bourbon and it’s ready for gifting.

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10 Gifts That Seem Pricier Than They Actually Are

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During the holidays, it's natural to want to give the world to those we love.

After all, nothing is too good for our parents, siblings, spouses, and dear friends. But a smart shopper never financially overextends himself at the holidays.

So how exactly can you impress your giftee without blowing your entire budget? It's all about perceived value, sentimentality, and need.

These notions are subjective of course, but we've found that the following gift ideas have the ability to make your giftee think you splurged on their holiday present, when you really just shopped wisely.

Designer Products at Mainstream Retail Chains

The whole idea behind high-end designers producing an accessibly-priced line of products available through a mainstream channel like Target or Sephora is to make money off the cachet attached to the brand name.

And it works, as exemplified by the immense popularity of Target's designer capsule collections. Currently, the retailer is promoting its exclusive Neiman Marcus collection, which includes wares from designers such as Marc Jacobs, Lela Rose, Oscar de la Renta, and more.

Many of the price tags however are a bit high to be considered inexpensive, but a few items are priced just right. Like this Tory Burch Lunch Box ($19.99 with $5.18 s&h), which can serve as a makeup bag and will delight any fashion-loving lady on your list.



Pearl Jewelry

Regardless of how easily this gem is now produced, the pearl still exudes an air of class and elegance over other jewelry.

(For some though, it might just seem stuffy, so make sure you know your audience with this one.) We periodically see inexpensive options — like this 9mm White Freshwater Pearl Necklace ($14.99 via coupon code "dealnews25" with free shipping, a low by $9) — that still have the luster and weight of pearls that the average person will associate with a much pricier product.



Skullcandy Headphones

Considering how much we rely on portable music these days, extra pairs of headphones are always appreciated.

But if you can't afford to spring for an acclaimed pair of Bose or Diddybeats ear phones, you can at least opt for something snazzy; Skullcandy regularly discounts its brightly-colored headsets to well under $20 via its eBay store, and the everything-but-standard-black hues will make these phones seem like a special purchase.

Currently you can score the Skullcandy Lowrider Headphones($15.99 with free shipping, a low by $7) in purple.



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32 Rules You Must Know For Wearing A Tuxedo

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Bow Tie Use Only OnceThis post originally appeared on The Fine Young Gentleman. 

How to wear a tuxedo?  A simple enough question, right?  The look is quite simple; some black here, some white there.  But to appropriately and properly pull it off there are numerous variables that deserve consideration.  Decisions have to be made on everything from shoes to collars.

As we all know, I am a fan of rules (but I am also a fan of breaking them).  And as is the case in the Rules Of Men’s Dress, there are some rules in black tie that should not be broken and some that are free to be broken, in good taste of course.  I receive countless inquiries from both friends and readers on how to wear a tuxedo so I feel it is prudent to centralize a list of basic and not so basic rules on how to wear a tuxedo.  The list is by no mean comprehensive or complete, it will be added to as appropriate.  But it should be sufficient to get any gentleman off to a suitable start.

1.  Thou shall only wear a self tied bow tie.  Long neck ties and pre-tied bow ties are perhaps the highest offense to black tie.  

2.  Thou shall avoid rental tuxedos as if they were the harbinger of death. Because, well, frankly they kind of are.

3.  Tuxedo, black tie and dinner jacket are basically all just different names for the same thing. That said, they will be used interchangeably going forward.

4.  Thou shall match the fabric of his bow tie to that of his lapels and stripe on his pants. But, for a bit of flair, a velvet bow tie can look great against satin or grosgrain lapels and pant stripes.

5.  If thou is wearing a single breasted jacket a cummerbund, waistcoat or vest shall be worn. The primary concern is to conceal the bit of white shirting fabric between your jacket button and waistband.

6.  Tuxedo/dinner jackets should only have one button when in single breasted form.

7.  A tuxedo jacket/dinner jacket shall never have notch lapels. They are not formal enough for a proper tuxedo. Peak lapels and shawl collars are the only acceptable options, whether single or double breasted.

8.  Thou shall wear a pocket square. White linen or cotton is ideal. Some gentlemen look dashing with a red or burgundy one, however.

9.  Thou shall not match one’s tuxedo or associated accessories with the attire of his date. It does not matter what your date says, the purpose of your tuxedo is not to match or compliment her dress.  Thou is meant to look stunning in one’s own right, changing one’s attire to suit her will only detract from the integrity of one’s tuxedo.

10.  Midnight blue tuxedos are making a comeback. Although I normally eschew trends, I will say that midnight blue tuxedos are bad ass.  Including the shawl collared one worn by Daniel Craig in Skyfall.

11.  A pleated front shirt is not necessary. Although they are more formal and traditional, often times a man looks best in a button up shirt with a classic spread collar shirt and French cuffs.

12.  Opera pumps (court shoes) are to be reserved for formal (white tie) attire. They are not appropriate for semi formal (black tie) attire.

13.  Patent leather shoes are acceptable for black tie, however, they shall be in lace up and not loafer form.

14.  If thou opts for calf skin shoes, they are to be well polished and free of brogues and medallions.  Many say that a well polished black cap toe is the ideal shoe to wear with a tuxedo.

15.  Belgian shoes and Prince Albert slippers are not appropriate at a club that you are not a member of/ do not have reciprocity at.  It would be presumptuous and rude to wear them.

16.  Belgian shoes and Prince Albert slippers are bad ass and the wearing of them is encouraged in appropriate settings like weddings and fundraisers.

17.  Bit loafers can be worn with a tuxedo. The same rules apply as with Prince Albert slippers, however, bit loafers are a bit more snarky (understatement).  And if you choose to wear them, do so wisely.  For when worn inappropriately it can be quite an offense.  It’s one of those ‘The first rule of Fight Club is you don’t talk about Fight Club’ type of things…

18.  Thou can wear a club bow tie in place of a black bow tie, as long as thou is a member of said club and preferably if the event is at said club.

19.  Thou can wear a button down shirt, however, the same statements apply as with bit loafers.

20.  Needlepoint cummerbunds are badass.

21.  Thou shall not wear a belt with a tuxedo. In fact, tuxedo pants should not have belt loops on them, ever.

22.  Thou shall wear suspenders with a tuxedo. However, in the event that pants stay up without suspenders they are not necessary.

23.  Thou shall not don pants with either cuffs or pleats with a tuxedo.

24.  Velvet jackets, smoking jackets and jacket of colors other than black and midnight blue (including tartans) should be worn with caution. They are of a lesser formality than the two traditional options.

25.  White or cream dinner jackets shall only be worn between memorial and labor days.  Unless one is in a warm weather or tropical climate. They are not appropriate for cold weather falls and winters, like what we have here in the Northeast.

26.  Solid black over the calf socks are the only appropriate hosiery for a man to wear with black tie.  If one must change things up, black over the calf socks with clocks can also be deemed appropriate.

27.  Studs are not necessary, however, they can look dashing. Gold, silver, mother of pearl, onyx are all suitable options.

28.  White and black suspenders are the most traditional choices.  However, they are an ideal medium for one to use to change things up a bit.  The women seem to love pink suspenders

29.  Jacket pockets should be besom pockets, not flap pockets.  If a jacket has flap pockets, they can often be tucked in the pockets to look like besom pockets.

30.  Life is more fun in a tux.

31.  Thou shall carry himself in a courteous and respectful manner.  He shall also carry his liquor well.

32.  Semi-formal dress means black tie.  Formal dress means white tie.  Know your dress code definitions.  If you think the organizers of an event meant something else, do not be embarrassed to inquire; for it would be far more embarrassing to show up in the wrong attire.

Justin Jeffers is the editor of The Fine Young Gentleman.

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Our First Bite At The East Village's New Rustic Italian Restaurant, L'Apicio

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l'apicio restaurant waiter

Welcome to First Bite, wherein we bring you a look at some of the city's newest restaurants shortly after they open.

We'll go, eat some food, take some pictures, and report back to you.

This go round it's L'Apicio, the newest project from Joe Campanale and chef Gabe Thompson on East First Street that opened October 18th.

We didn't have a chance to go before we left for Asia, but it was our first dinner when we got back to town.

One of the great things about Epicurean Management restaurants (dell'anima, L'Artusi, Anfora, and now L'Apicio) are the wine lists.

Joe Campanale, beverage director and co-owner, curates delightfully explorative wine lists to accompany chef Gabe Thompson's rustic, Italian cuisine. An example of this is the 2011 Arnot-Roberts trousseau from Clear Lake, California. Trousseau is a grape indigenous to the small wine producing region of Jura in eastern France, but also one that thrives in the cooler climate of Lake County, California, and the '11 Arnot-Roberts effort was recently featured in a New York Times article.

Despite its lighter-bodied profile, trousseau produces incredibly well-structured, complex, and balanced wines. We found the Arnot-Roberts trousseau to be similar to schiava, a grape that's grown in Trentino Alto-Adige in Italy's north. In both instances, the wines are light, floral, mineral-driven, and have a slightly bitter finish. Surprisingly tannic for such a thin-skinned varietal, Arnot-Roberts' trousseau is a refreshing alternative to the oft overbearing, rich, powerful wines produced in California.

The wine list will change with some regularity, particularly the by the glass options, but in order to highlight the list, we've provided a pairing option for each of the dishes we had.

Escarole pecorino-buttermilk dressing, almonds, and cucumber ($13) - The salad carries a bright acidity from a liberal squeeze of lemon in the buttermilk dressing. Cucumbers and radishes add texture and freshness to contrast the fat in the cheese and buttermilk.

The salad is a nod to the fundamentals of Italian cooking: minimal ingredients and fresh produce. It's a great way to excite the palate before the starches show up.

Wine: Vignoles Estate, Keuka Lakes Vineyards 2011 (Finger Lakes, New York) $10 - Finger Lakes wines are a quickly growing sensation. The terroir surrounding said lakes provides exceptional growing conditions in which wines of great freshness and bright acidity are produced. The vibrant, acid-driven vignoles is light and crisp, but has a slightly rich mouth feel that can withstand the fatty dressing.

Linguine clams, pepperoni, and chilies ($19) - There was no denying the fresh clam flavor in this pasta. Chilies brightened everything up, and while the inclusion of pepperoni provided a modern twist, didn't offer much else to the dish.

Wine: Bianchetta Genovese "U Pastine," Bisson 2011 (Liguria, Italy) $13 - Bianchetta Genovese is from the coastal region of Liguria in Italy, where seafood is a well-known and cherished fare. Many Ligurian wines have a subtle salinity that results from grapes growing in approximation to the Mediterranean.

It is especially evident in wines from Genoa, Liguria's coastal capital, and proves to go extremely well with the brininess found in shellfish. The wine, from one of the region's best producers, is rarely vinified as a varietal wine, and shows Campanale's passion for finding Italian gems.

Pappardelle short rib ragu ($18) - Ragus are sometimes the best place to look when scouring for a chef's ability to make pasta. This one hits the nail on the head. It's not an overly sauced, Americanized mound of poorly cooked meat; but a refined, richly flavored, and decadent pasta. The toothsome bit of the perfectly cooked noodles was matched by the most tender shreds of braised short rib meat.

Wine: Syrah "Tous Ensemble," Copain 2009 (Mendocino County, California) $15 - There are a few solid red options by the glass that would pair well with the ragu, but we settled on the California syrah. The pasta is packed with flavor and spice, so we thought a wine of similar character and ambition would be the best way to wash it down, especially on a cold night!

Broccoli Rabe garlic, chili, and onion ($16) - Polenta alla spianatora is a dish in the Epicurean Management Group unique to L'Apicio. It's a glorified side dish of sorts, served family style on a wooden board. Polenta might be to the Italian chef what the omelet is to a French chef and Thompson has the technique down pat.

With our ragu intake from the pasta, we settled on the veggie option. The result was a textural, flavorful delight. It was a little heavy handed on the spice (we dig spice), but everything polenta should be.

Wine: Nebbiolo, Vallana Boca 2004 (Piedmont, Italy) $17 -We say go for the nebbiolo, a grape indigenous to the northern parts of Italy. Polenta is said to have originated in Friuli, where nebbiolo is not grown, but the dish is also popular in Lombardia, where nebbiolo (known locally as chiavennasca) is one of the most widely planted grapes.

So, in a round about way, this pairing supports the ol' "grows together goes together" ideal. Being an '04, the wine is a bit further along in the aging process, so developed nuances and complexities will make for a more enjoyable, fuller bodied wine that will stand up to the fat and richness that makes polenta so good.

Chandeliers are part of the decor in the 180-seat restaurant. The ambitious room is hip in that industrial, clubby, East Village sort of way. It's a far cry from the intimate rooms found at other EMG restaurants, but the offerings are still undeniably Thompson and Campanale's.

L'Apicio | 13 East First Street | 212.533.7400 

Sunday-Wednesday, 5:30pm – 11:00pm, Thursday-Saturday, 5:30pm-12:00am

*brunch coming soon

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Why China's Super-Rich Are Packing Up And Moving Abroad

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pudong airport shanghaiThis article by Hua Ti on Economic Observer was translated by WorldCrunch and syndicated here.

BEIJING - Zhang Lan, founder of restaurant chain South Beauty, is one of China’s richest women and a symbol of the country's booming economic success. Thus it is not surprising that the recent news that the billionaire has renounced her Chinese citizenship to take on a foreign nationality has been met with some significant national soul-searching.

Though it is still not clear what nationality Zhang will take on (China doesn't allow for dual citizenship), her choice is part of broader trend of wealthy Chinese emigrating overseas.

According to the 2011 Private Wealth Report, 27% of Chinese entrepreneurs worth more than 100 million RMB ($15.9 million) have already emigrated, while another 47% say they are considering doing so. The number of these so-called “naked businessmen” is massive. The main reasons for businessmen emigrating are: their children’s education, protecting assets, and preparing for retirement.

Increasingly, the general Chinese public has grown aware of this dramatic trend. Last year, out of 5,000 investment immigration visas issued by the U.S., Chinese people accounted for two-thirds of them.

Undoubtedly, the most dazzling fact in all of this is that over 70% of China’s privileged have either emigrated or are on the way to emigrate. It is definitely not normal for 70% of a country’s wealthy class to want to leave the place where they were born and made their fortune. When we connect this piece of news to another study conducted a few years back in which it was said 80% of China’s wealth is in 20% of people’s hands, then it is easy to imagine the scale of the loss of China’s national wealth.

Apart from the immediate loss of national wealth, massive emigration will no doubt also shake the public’s confidence in the future prospects for China’s domestic development. In general, unless their riches were amassed by unlawful means, the rich are the economic elite of a country.

The choices of a country’s elite influence the emotions, judgment and decisions of ordinary people. When the rich pin the hope of their children’s education and retirement on other countries, it means that they have a pessimistic view regarding the improvement of their country’s education and social security. When people flee a country just to protect their assets, it’s further proof that they do not hold too much hope for the country’s rule of law.

Flights of fancy

Many people like to take a moral high ground and criticize the rich Chinese emigrants. A renowned scholar recently commented on China’s emigration trend in an interview. At the turn of the 20th century the Chinese students who went to study abroad all tried to come home as fast as they could to serve their country, whereas the Chinese children who go abroad today scramble to find ways to stay in their host countries, even if they've barely graduated from high school.     

I personally prefer to look at the issue from another angle.

First, in my view, the fact that the rich are fleeing is sad and even worthy of compassion. Out of the three main reasons for the rich emigrating, their offspring’s education is the most important. This says that, like every parent, wealthy people want their children to get the best education they can. As for protecting their assets, it’s related to the status of the rule of law in China, while hoping for a sound retirement is just human nature. None of these reasons are about personal happiness. In other words, the wealthy do not leave just for the sake of better material conditions.

The flight of the rich also helps to reverse the deep-rooted “eating philosophy” pursued by China’s rulers, where development is the supreme ideal, and as long as the people have enough to eat, all dissatisfaction will disappear. Compared to this, universal values such as rule of law, freedom, and human rights are just quaint ideas.

Nevertheless China’s wealthiest, the people who eat the most, are voting with their feet. This may indeed mark the end of the “eating philosophy.” The fleeing wealthy show us that, as human beings, we have spiritual needs and need to be respected beyond just having enough to eat. When the citizens of a country turn to other states for these things, we should not blame them. What we should rather think about is the quantity and quality of public service that this country provides.

From what Xi Jinping said in November’s Communist Party Congress, we can undoubtedly see that China’s new generation of leaders has started to take stock of the problem. Since Xi became China’s leader, “livelihood” and “anti-corruption” have become the most repeated expressions in his speeches.

It’s easier to shout slogans than to act. If our country can improve public services, accelerate the process of the rule of the law and put an end to corruption as fast as possible, China will become a pleasant country to live in. And then, I’m convinced that the rush to exile by the rich will come to a halt.

Read the article in the original language.

All rights reserved ©Worldcrunch - in partnership with ECONOMIC OBSERVER

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10 Thoroughly Modern Menorahs

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pipe menorah

The beginning of Hanukkah is only a couple days from now — do you know where your chanukiyah, the nine-branch menorah, is?

Using the Hanukkah menorah your grandparents used may be a family tradition, but do-it-yourself, arty, or high-tech menorahs have the same symbolism.

Here are a few interesting ones found around the internet.

1. LED Hanukkah Menorah Kit

Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories posted their first LED Menorah project back in 2006.

A microcontroller keeps the LEDs in order, so that each time you turn it on, the correct configuration of lights of that day of Hanukkah are displayed  — as long as you start on the right date.

So many people were interested that they started making kits for sale, which have been improved and updated over the years.

But if you want to provide your own parts, the code is open source and available through the Evil Mad Scientist Wiki.



2. Star Trek Menorah

Once you have the parts and the instructions, your own imagination can make your homemade menorah special and even reflect your personal interests.

Joyce and Kaufman made this Star Trek menorah with the above-mentioned LED kit and character heads from PEZ dispensers.



3. Recycled Circuit Board Menorah

If you like the LED idea but don’t want to make your own, this LED menorah from Zion Judaica also lights sequentially and runs on batteries.

Environmentally-friendly, too, as it’s constructed of recycled circuit board! And since it is sold through Amazon, they have instructions on how to get it shipped by December 25th. Heh.



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Here Are The Retailers Last-Minute Shoppers Should Avoid At All Costs

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best buy employee

With the success of Black Friday and Cyber Monday 2012, we'd wager that a lot of shoppers have gotten a head start on their holiday buying.

But since it's only the first week in December, there's still time to find the perfect gifts at the best prices for all those on your holiday gift list.

Just don't wait too long to make your online purchases, as there are some potential risks involved in procrastinating just a little too much.

Beyond the challenge of finding the right gift and staying within your budget, you'll want the assurance that it'll arrive in time for the holidays.

Many merchants, of course, take great care to expedite their processes during the holiday season, and there are numerous others that offer a special Christmas guarantee, which may include refunds for orders that don't arrive in time. But not all retailers are that reliable.

There are a few types of stores (and a handful of retailers in particular) whose shipping policies are likely to cut it close to Christmas. If you're interested in purchasing from any of these retailers below, you should place your order this week, otherwise you'll run the risk of your gifts not arriving in time for the holiday.

But, as we get closer to Christmas and your purchases become more last-minute, it's smart to avoid these stores entirely. So, who made the naughty list?

Stores with Slow Shipping

We mention these stores with the side note that many of them might in fact feature shipping guarantees. However, they're also periodic offenders of extremely late delivery, so we feel that it's still worth keeping in mind what the potential processing and shipping delays might be. After all, a store might guarantee a refund if an order is late, but that does you little good if you have nothing to give on December 25.

First up is Kohl's, which is notoriously guilty of slow processing; according to our own staff experiences, it can take a week between a "Thank you for your Kohls.com order" email and the subsequent "Your Kohls.com order is ready to be shipped" message. Sometimes orders are processed more quickly than this, but the erratic nature of delivery time makes us nervous when buying with a hard deadline.

Meritline is also on the slow shipper list, and although we don't expect you to buy, say, a data cable for your loved ones as a gift, some of the store's quirky goods — like these USB Heated Warmer Gloves ($3.99 with free shipping) — make for nifty, inexpensive stocking stuffers. Unfortunately, most items require two to three weeks for delivery, while even the items marked 1-week delivery can take a while to arrive.

Additionally, according to STELLAService (a company that measures retailer customer service), the slowest shippers in the past six months have consistently been Target, Overstock, Dell, and HSN. STELLAService data shows that each averages about a 6-day turnaround, from placing the order to receiving it.

But, one of the most frequently-named and disappointing retailers amongst our own readers and staff is Best Buy, as many have complained about the store's processing and shipping policies. Our Editor in Chief checked his numerous past orders and discovered that Best Buy usually takes five days to process an order, upon which you can tack on the days its actually in transit.

(Some of our writers have experienced even longer processing times.) Another writer evaluated three recent orders and discovered that on average, they took two weeks to arrive.

Merchants with Slow Ship-to-Store

Some folks find it easier to either avoid potential shipping costs or missing their UPS guy by having their items sent directly to a local brick-and-mortar store. But even in-store deliveries can be delayed. JCPenney's jcp.com Catalogue Desk orders can be shipped to affiliated, non-JCP locations for convenience, but this can also introduce different processes that vary by store.

Chances are high that smaller stores have a less streamlined method for processing site-to-store orders, which may explain the numerous complaints we've received about items arriving late, or not being on the premises at all when they should be. Payless Shoes orders shipped to a store for pickup, too, often take a full 14 days for delivery.

Walmart is another big retailer that offers a free ship-to-store option. However, it can be tedious since shoppers can only pick up their orders when the customer service desk is staffed. Store hours vary, but for some locations, the hours are the normal 9 to 5, which means customers will have a hard time picking up orders after work. There's also the risk of in-store pickup deliveries taking up to a week to arrive.

Flash Sale and Daily Deal Sites

Many flash sale sites don't actually possess the items they're selling; Lot 18, for example, takes orders from its users, but the wine itself is packaged and shipped by each specific winery. This often contributes to a lengthy processing time and slow delivery.

Numerous flash stores, as well, like Fab, Rue La La, and daily deal sites like DailySteals.com and 1 Sale A Day clearly state that shipping for some items may take several weeks, but sometimes their wares are still positioned as holiday options. Pay close attention to whether your selected gift will actually be available for delivery before Christmas and note that there are often no expedited shipping options available.

Stores That Specialize in Personalization

Merchants like RedEnvelope, Pottery Barn, and L.L. Bean are popular holidays shops because of their gift-friendly personalized items. But not only does this customization add an extra and sometimes time-consuming step (which some of our readers have lamented), it also introduces a more significant chance of encountering an error that cannot be fixed in time for the holiday.

A store may fix an item with a misspelled name free of charge, but not without tacking on a few extra weeks to your gift-giving timeline.

Retailers with a Tendency to Cancel Orders

A cancelled order can upset any shopper, no matter the time of year, but it's especially annoying when the store doesn't notify the customer in a timely fashion. Not only is there a loss of time spent finding the original deal, but there's even less time to find a replacement.

Last year, Best Buy cancelled hundreds of orders just weeks before Christmas, and though the retailer did offer refunds and credits, a number of shoppers refuse to take that same risk again.

In fact, Best Buy has again cancelled some Black Friday 2012 orders, but it has done so in a timely fashion this year. Yet it's likely that this doesn't change consumers' past experiences, as many customers remain wary of shopping with Best Buy again. Toys "R" Us and Fry's also cancelled orders after Black Friday weekend, and the dealnews staff has had issues in general with Shoebuy, newegg, Reebok, and Kate Spade.

Questionable Sellers

When DeepDiscount's parent company Infinity Resources had its Better Business Bureau accreditation revoked in 2010, dealnews stopped listing its wares. However, that doesn't necessarily mean that consumers have stopped shopping there... or at other questionable online stores.

And not having an accreditation doesn't stop resellers from offering their goods on eBay, etsy, and the like, either. We wholly advise skipping the sale from a merchant without a BBB listing, and to be aware of seller-specific processing and shipping guidelines, as many can take up to 30 days to process and ship.

All in all, we want our readers to enjoy their holiday shopping as much as they can. To keep the anxiety down, we again remind all you love-to-shop-last-minute gift-givers not only to be leery of flash sale sites and personalized items, but to think twice about ordering from stores with slow shipping and a history of canceling orders. If you must do any last-minute gift buying, you can always shop in-store with printable coupon in-hand.

SEE ALSO: 50 must-have holiday gifts for $50 or less >

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The Best Travel Destinations This December

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lapland santa village rovaniemi

Good excuses for a December break, from migrating butterflies in Mexico to Santa spotting in Lapland.

Edinburgh - for Hogmanay

No city parties quite like Edinburgh on New Year’s Eve.

It’s very much a public event and easy to feel part of it.

Events get going on December 30 with a torchlit procession and an opening party in Revolution Square starting at 5pm, and continue until January 2. Full details of timings and tickets are on www.edinburghshogmanay.org.

For other things to do in Edinburgh, and suggested places to stay, see our expert guide to the city.



Vienna - for New Year

Edinburgh does New Year in style, but not quite the style of Vienna with its spectacular balls, concerts, operas and operettas.

The most useful guide to the different events, including details of how to book tickets to one of the balls, is found at the tourist board website.



Germany - for the festive spirit

No country does Christmas markets quite like Germany, from the sausage and gluwein, to the toys and picturesque settings, and the majority have already opened their doors.

The best places to go are Nuremberg, one of Europe's most enchanting medieval cities, Munich, or — for something more contemporary — Berlin.

Berlin city break guide



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10 Luxe Designer Gifts That Cost $50 Or Less

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girl opening present hermes smiling

So you’ve got a label-loving lady in your life, but you’re terrified that her high-end taste will leave you penniless this holiday.

Relax. It’s easy to suit her style without breaking the bank.

With this fashion-friendly gift guide, she can wear her heart—or whom she hearts—on her sleeve for less!

Tory Burch: Logo Thong Flip Flops

Women adore Tory. Her brand has built a cult-like following over the last decade thanks to her pretty-in-prep style.

Though the signature Tory Burch ballet flats are a little (read: a lot) out of our price range, you can still score the eponymous T logo with these adorably chic Logo Thong Flip Flops ($50) at Saks Fifth Avenue in your choice of black-and-white or winter teal.

(Until December 31, save up to 40 percent off select designer styles with Saks Fifth Avenue coupons.)



Marc by Marc Jacobs: The Jacobs Tote

This one’s in the bag. Coming in at a mere $35, the Jacobs Tote is the perfect little cotton-canvas carryall.

And it aptly represents Marc Jacobs’ stylishly quirky sense of humor by simply stating, “Jacobs by Marc Jacobs for Marc by Marc Jacobs in collaboration with Marc Jacobs for Marc by Marc Jacobs.”

(Get free shipping on all orders of $150 or more with Marc Jacobs coupons.)



Jonathan Adler: Carnaby Acid Palm Mug

Home decor and furniture designer Jonathan Adler offers a bevy of great gifts under $50 this season.

He’s best known for his ceramic work, so why not warm her heart—and home—with the cheeky Squirrel Match Strike ($42)?

You could also opt for the neon-chic Carnaby Acid Palm Mug ($18).

Since it’s under $20, you could buy two and still be on budget. (Spy these Jonathan Adler coupons before you check out.)



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Chanel Metiers d’Art Paris-Édimbourg 2012/13 show

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Here’s an exclusive backstage pass to the Chanel Metiers d’Art Paris-Édimbourg 2012/13 show, at Linlithgow Palace (the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots in 1542), Kirkgate Linlithgow, on Tuesday December 4th. Karl Lagerfeld debuted his annual collection and paid homage to Coco Chanel by taking Chanel’s classic designs to a fresh and modern level inspired by Scottish patterns. Staying true to Coco’s philosophy, this show not only glorified the tweeds and knits, but was also an “anti-stiletto” collection, noted Lagerfeld backstage. Mixing wools, tartan and plaids with lace and chiffon, the collection beautifully juxtaposed the past and the present. The collection celebrated the newly-acquired Barrie knitwear Mill, with Lagerfeld being inspired by Scotland’s “romantic and barbarian” spirit.

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This Luxury Brand Is Mass Producing Objects That Don't Work

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useless shoe erratum

A cheese grater without any holes, a tennis racket with two heads and a golf club twisted into a loop are some of the items on sale at the surreal Erratum boutique, which opens at the Paradise Row gallery in London tomorrow.

The project is the work of artist Jeremy Hutchison, who has invited workers from factories across China, India, Poland, Turkey and Pakistan to insert an error into one of the everyday items they typically produce in bulk and send him their results.

The malformed objects have a disturbing, eerie quality, suggesting an alternative reality, a jarring aberration in the polished, homogeneous world of mass-produced goods. They also hint at a possible form of artificial evolution, each mistake suggesting a potential success, a mutation that could evolve to serve a future race.

Hutchison was inspired by allegations last year about the working conditions in Apple's Foxconn factory, including a story from one worker who said he would deliberately drop a spanner on the floor so that he could have a few seconds of rest while picking it up.

useless cheese grater erratum"I became fascinated by this idea of an intentional human error to break the tedium of mass-production," says the artist. "I wanted to see what would happen if you commissioned this kind of intentional mistake into the smooth logic of a hyperefficient globalised machine."

Hutchison went online and discovered Alibaba, the global production portal, and began sending thousands of emails to manufacturers across the world, requesting a version of what they produced, rendered useless by a human error.

The resulting products, from leadless pencils to double-heeled stilettos, will go on sale as limited edition works in the luxury boutique, as well as via the Erratum online store– alongside photos of supermodels crashing down flights of stairs, as if following an encounter with one of the mutant objects.

useless tennis racket erratum"The endgame of luxury is when things slide into obsolescence: true luxury has no function," says Hutchison. "It is not something to be used or understood. It is a feeling: beyond sense, beyond logic, beyond utility. It is an ethic of perfect dysfunctionality."

Having launched the project in London, the hub of global consumption, he is keen to take it overseas, to China, Russia and India. "We're still used to this colonialist paradigm of things being made in China and consumed here," he says. But, as the copy of Vogue China resting on the gallery's coffee table suggests, "things are no longer quite that simple".

This article originally appeared on guardian.co.uk

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Former NASA & Apple engineers create the world’s most expensive coffee maker

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What is invented when two of the world’s best research organization engineers come together? A coffee maker! Prepare to be astonished. Former engineers from NASA and Apple collectively designed Blossom One Limited, a coffee maker which has now bagged the world’s most expensive coffee maker title. It costs a soaring $11,111 and has been developed for commercial use. The elegant coffee maker has been developed by Jeremy Kuempel and created successfully by Blossom Coffee.

Kuempel, who is the mastermind behind the project, is a great fan of coffee and wanted to develop a coffee maker that is focused on large scale coffee creation. The materials used to make the world’s most expensive coffee maker were namely mahogany, glass and stainless steel. But, what actually makes this coffee maker bask in glory is the integration of a 3MP camera for QR Code scanning, it can download and share brew recipes, and the fact that it can connect to Wi-Fi easily. As this comes as a limited edition machine, therefore only 10 units will be available for purchase in 2013.

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13 Must-Have Gifts For The College Student On Your List

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College Campus

Do you have a kid who’s away at school?

To my mind, students are the easiest folks to buy for.

There are so many things you can give them that will make their busy lives easier—and cleaner and more organized.

Housekeeping: Vacuum

It’s doubtful that your child’s dorm room is equipped with a vacuum (it’s even more doubtful that the room has been vacuumed since September).

The Eureka Boss Lite Cordless 96JZ Vacuum Cleaner ($59.95) is perfect for cleanups.

This lightweight, bagless vac converts into a hand vac for quick messes, and it has a convenient wall-mounted charger. (Get 10 percent off your purchase with GoVacuum.com coupons.)



Housekeeping: Bag Dispenser

All the takeout and trips to the convenience store sure generate a lot of plastic bags!

Encourage your kid to use the Orka by Mastrad Bag Dispenser ($11.95) from ReUseIt.

This clever device will let him reuse those bags and provide him with a colorful and clutter-free room. (Get 20 percent off orders of $35 or more with ReUseIt coupons.)



Housekeeping: Drawer Fresheners

Now that you’re not doing your child’s laundry, his or her clothes probably aren’t as fresh as they once were.

Help those dirty garments smell sweet with Fresh Threads Drawer Fresheners ($19.99 for nine fresheners), available in three yummy scents: Subtle Citrus, Classic Clean and Soft Amber.

They’re great for drawers, closets, gym bags, suitcases—you name it!



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Here Are 10 Little-Known Ways You Can Practically Travel For Free

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bahamas pool drinks cheersCheap is good, but free is fabulous.

Our fifth annual roundup of almost-free travel deals features free round-trip flights in the Bahamas, free convertible rentals in Hawaii, free kids' sailings on Disney cruises, and a whole lot more.

 

Kids Sail Free On Disney

Children 17 and under can sail free on most six- and eight-night Disney Cruise Line sailings departing from Galveston, Texas, between January 12 and March 1.

Children must be traveling with two full-fare adults in specific stateroom categories to qualify for the deal.

Extras such as kids' clubs, complimentary room service, and exclusive adult areas are included in all Disney Cruises. 



Free Premium Car Rental in Hawaii

Package provider Pleasant Holidays is offering a free Hertz convertible, SUV, Jeep, or minivan rental with five-night Hawaii vacation packages booked by January 6 for travel from January 1 through February 28.

We just named Hawaii one of the top five bargain destinations for winter, and this almost-free offer adds to the savings you'll find in the coming season.



Free Flight in the Bahamas

Getting to the Bahamas is on you, but once you're there, you can get to one of the many pristine Out Islands of the Bahamas for free.

You'll get two free round-trip plane tickets when you book a four-night air-inclusive package from Nassau to any participating Out Islands Resort, or one free round-trip plane ticket with a three-night air-inclusive package.

The deal is good on bookings made through June 30 for travel through October 31, 2013.



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