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What You Need To Know About Watchcases Before Buying Your Next Timepiece

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Jaeger-LeCoultre watch

This is an excerpt from Jason Heaton's ebook, "Build The Ultimate Watch Collection."

Artistry in watchmaking is not only in the movement.

An expertly beveled shoulder or contrasting brushed and polished surfaces on a watchcase can be equally eye-pleasing and far more visible.

And while case manufacturing is not as much of a micro-engineering marvel as a watch movement, it can be equally technical and difficult to master.

The primary role of the watchcase is to protect the movement from the elements — heat, moisture, dust, body fluids. But that’s the easy part, thanks to modern gasket materials and the tight tolerances that can be achieved with modern manufacturing.

The hard part is designing a case that states the watch's purpose with good proportions and the interplay of finished surfaces.

Early wristwatch cases were built by simply welding a curved strap bar onto each end of a pocket watchcase, around which leather strap pieces were riveted.

This design made for fairly unimaginative case shapes until the late 1920s and '30s, when integrated “horns,” or “lugs,” were introduced. Watch builders were then able to play with the flow of the case into the lugs, adding twists and flourishes, freed from the constraints of mere function.

Art Deco watches were arguably some of the most beautiful ever produced. The most famous of this era was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, a rectangular masterpiece of angles and steps.

The Reverso namesake pice de resistance was the reversing case that hid the watch dial from view to protect it from damage during polo matches. The Reverso is still popular today, proof that great design never goes out of style.

As the decades progressed, cases became more varied in shape and size. Whereas in earlier times, when watches rarely exceeded 34 millimeters in diameter, by the late 1960s, brands like Rolex and Omega were creating sports watches up to 40mm across.

The shapes of this time period created what could be considered the archetypal wristwatch shape — a round case body flowing into curved lugs that drape down onto the wrist.

Some lugs were “twisted” into a lyre shape, such as on the later Omega Speedmasters, while Rolex took a more slab-sided approach on. Where surfaces adjoin, often one is polished to a high shine while the other is a matte brushed finish, creating visual interest and light play. These techniques are still used today.

Where watchcases really came into the modern era was in the use of new materials. Traditionally, cases were made of stainless steel or gold, either plated or solid. Now we see cases made from titanium, ceramic and even sapphire.

These materials have properties beneficial to watches—magnetism, corrosion and scratch-resistant—but they are extremely difficult to work with. IWC Schaffhausen was the first brand to really master the use of titanium and ceramic back in the 1980s and '90s, and this past year saw high-end watchmaker Richard Mille build a completely see-through sapphire case.

Creating these cases would have been a mere dream to the case builders of an earlier age, made possible now by state-of-the-art design and manufacturing techniques.

What’s next for watchcases? No one knows, though we may have seen a glimpse with the Cartier Concept One watch with its vacuum-sealed clear ceramic case.

Next time someone tells you that only the movement matters when it comes to watches, tell him to think again and consider the case.

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These Are The World's Booziest Vacation Destinations

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kavos drinking dancing

This week a judge in Toronto ordered a travel agency to refund 19 holidaymakers after their trip to the Riviera Maya in Mexico was ruined by urinating Canadian students celebrating spring break.

The March holiday is traditionally a time of excessive merriment for North American scholars, and Mexico's Caribbean coast attracts thousands of revellers.

Here we look at other sozzled spots you might want to avoid on your next wedding anniversary.

Cancun

This purpose built resort town ("Established in 1972" quip the souvenir baseball caps) to the north of the Riviera Maya is a haven for cocktails and debauchery.

Most of the big hotels sit between sea and lagoon on a narrow, 15-mile strip known as the Zona Hotelera.

It's not all about drinking your weight in tequila, however.

The resort can be used as a gateway for trips to deserted beaches and Mayan ruins, as Telegraph Travel's Nigel Tisdall discovered last year.



Magaluf

Unless you're a spotty teenager, there's very little to like about Magaluf (or Shagaluf, as it's often called).

Expect greasy spoons, football fans, and streets lined with the detritus from the night before.

It's a shame really, because much of Mallorca (especially towns like Valldemossa, in the interior) is well worth exploring.



Germany

Germans are the world's second-biggest beer drinkers (only the Czechs knock back more), so any holiday there is likely to be punctuated with large jugs of frothy goodness.

The country is renowned for its beer festivals, of which Oktoberfest is by far the most popular.



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PPR to acquire Jeweler Qeelin

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Via the Wall Street Journal:

PPR is acquiring Chinese fine-jewelry maker Qeelin Ltd., the French company’s first Asian label, highlighting the powerful role China is playing in the luxury world. China is “already an absolutely immense market, it will become even more so,” said François-Henri Pinault, chief executive of PPR, whose labels include Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Stella McCartney. “A brand whose origins, its codes, its DNA are Chinese will benefit from a considerable advantage.”

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Why China's Super-Rich Are Packing Up And Moving Abroad

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pudong airport shanghaiThis article by Hua Ti on Economic Observer was translated by WorldCrunch and republished here.

BEIJING - Zhang Lan, founder of restaurant chain South Beauty, is one of China’s richest women and a symbol of the country's booming economic success. Thus it is not surprising that the recent news that the billionaire has renounced her Chinese citizenship to take on a foreign nationality has been met with some significant national soul-searching.

Though it is still not clear what nationality Zhang will take on (China doesn't allow for dual citizenship), her choice is part of broader trend of wealthy Chinese emigrating overseas.

According to the 2011 Private Wealth Report, 27% of Chinese entrepreneurs worth more than 100 million RMB ($15.9 million) have already emigrated, while another 47% say they are considering doing so. The number of these so-called “naked businessmen” is massive. The main reasons for businessmen emigrating are: their children’s education, protecting assets, and preparing for retirement.

Increasingly, the general Chinese public has grown aware of this dramatic trend. Last year, out of 5,000 investment immigration visas issued by the U.S., Chinese people accounted for two-thirds of them.

Undoubtedly, the most dazzling fact in all of this is that over 70% of China’s privileged have either emigrated or are on the way to emigrate. It is definitely not normal for 70% of a country’s wealthy class to want to leave the place where they were born and made their fortune. When we connect this piece of news to another study conducted a few years back in which it was said 80% of China’s wealth is in 20% of people’s hands, then it is easy to imagine the scale of the loss of China’s national wealth.

Keep reading at WorldCrunch >

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Men In Tights: 'Meggings' Are Taking Manhattan By Storm

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meggings

Men’s tights, for so long the preserve of ballet dancers and runway models, are taking Manhattan by storm and could soon be seen on the street of Britain.

When trendsetters speculated what would be the defining men’s fashion movement to sweep New York this winter, few opted for the male legging.

But “Megging”, as the male legging is known, is now all the rage in sartorial circles. Celebrities such as Justin Bieber, Russell Brand and Lenny Kravitz have all been spotted wearing leggings, while fashion stores Uniqlo, Barneys and Nordstrom are selling tights for men.

The bad news is they are on their way to Britain: Uniqlo is already selling them on its British website, and their success in New York is seen as an indication they will also prove popular here.

 

They are expected to follow on from the trend for “skinny jeans” on men, which have become a staple of the British high street.

One proud “megger” is Mark Dorosz, 34, an English internet entrepreneur who lives on the Upper East Side in Manhattan.

“Male tights are so much more comfortable than skinny jeans,” he said. “I’ve always had good legs and it’s nice to show them off all year round.

“There are so many people wearing exotic clothes in New York that nobody cares about a man wearing leggings if it works for him.

“Perhaps people will be laughing around this in 12 months’ time but for now they come up to me and say, 'You look awesome.’”

Some New Yorkers, however, see the “megger” as an affront to masculinity. Gabriel Cru, 35, from the Bronx, said: “Men in tights? Get out of here. We don’t do men in tights in New York. That’s European!”

New York-based British fashion designer Lucy Sykes warned that 'megging’ is a hard look to pull off. “The only guy I’ve seen that looks good in a legging is my friend Neil who works with me at Rent the Runway," she said. "But he’s young, dark and handsome and used to perform ballet at Lincoln Centre.

“Frankly any other man I have seen [in tights] looks a bit of a wally.”

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The 5 Best Ski Mountains For Winter Vacations

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Valle Nevado mountains, Chile

As we transition to the winter months, two kinds of people emerge.

There are the gung-ho winter activities lovers — the people who live for 5 am wake-ups and fresh tracks in the snow, undaunted by even the coldest temperatures.

Check out these awesome mountains >

Then, there are the people for whom the thought of spending several hours outside in 30 degree temperatures sounds like pure torture.

What’s a family to do then, when faced with planning a winter vacation for a combination of ski bunnies and the snow averse?

Here at Hopper we live for these travel quandaries and have pulled together our list of best ski destinations with something for everyone.

To do this, we looked at the biggest resorts in the East and West, narrowing it down to mountains that are easily accessible by plane or car with a wide variety of on and off mountain activities.

From challenging black diamonds to cozy chalets, here are the mountains that offer the best of both worlds:

More From Hopper Travel:

Europe's Best Ski Resorts

Skiing In Vermont

Top Utah Ski Destinations

The Slopes Of Aspen

Stowe Mountain, Vermont

Two very different ways to hit the slopes in Stowe, VT.

Stowe, Vermont is a New England winter wonderland with an Alpine vibe. In 1950 the Von Trapp family (famously depicted in the movie classic Sound of Music) opened a ski lodge in town, and the place has been a mecca for families ever since.

Stowe Mountain Resort is one of the largest in New England, boasting 116 trails over 39 miles. Mt. Mansfield, one of Stowe’s two peaks, is the highest in Vermont and the birthplace of downhill skiing in VT.

The first slopes were carved into the mountain in 1933. With terrain for all abilities (16% beginner, 59% intermediate and 25% expert), everyone from wobbling school kids to wild teenagers will have plenty of trails to choose from.

Non-skiers will be equally occupied. Stowe Lodge boasts a top of the line Wellness Center and Spa for pampering. The town is classic New England with clapboard colonials and a white church.

It’s also home to more than 70 unique stores and several outstanding restaurants. Off mountain activities include dog sledding, a trip to the Ben & Jerry’s factory or a tour and tasting at Boyden Vallery winery.

Under 4 hours from Boston and a little more than 6 from New York, it’s accessible from most everywhere in New England. Burlington is the closest airport, just 45 minutes away from Stowe’s snowy peaks.



Mont Tremblant, Quebec

Mont Tremblant, like the Alps, but in Canada.

Mont Tremblant is like Disney World on ice. Just 90 minutes from Montreal, it’s a winter playground in the vein of the great European resorts, which means awesome skiing and snowboarding but just as much off mountain fun.

First, the ski facts: with 95 ski trails, four separate slopes, and 13 lifts, there’s enough terrain here to keep even the most intense athletes happy and buzzing on adrenaline for days. The off mountain activities are equally buzzworthy.

Tremblant boasts its own casino and over 40 top tier restaurants and bars. The resort village is home to number of chic boutiques as well as a spa and wellness center. Families will love the movie theatre, ice skating rink, acqua club, and dog sled or helicopter tours.

Mont Tremblant also wins for its charming ambiance. Its distinctly European vibe is entrenched by the abundance of native French speaking Quebecois and its quintessential Alpine architecture.

Its village set up, with many of the bars and restaurants accessible on foot and by skis, means it’s easy for families of all activity inclinations to meet up for lunch or dinner.

Flying into Montreal from NYC and Boston is more affordable for East Coasters than a trip out West, and the drive (7 hours from Boston and 8 from NYC) is not so prohibitive either.



Snowbird/Alta, Utah

The best of both worlds, less than an hour apart.

Utah’s Snowbird and Alta resorts are known for being havens for dedicated skiers & snowboarders (note: Snowbird allows both, Alta is skiing only).

While this would suggest it’s not necessarily the best spot for the snow sport averse, its prime location makes all the difference. Only 45 minutes from the surprisingly hip Salt Lake City, non-skiers have access to all the amenities of an urban center.

With an elevation of 10,550 feat, Alta easily trumps Eastern peaks and has 116 trails on 2,200 acres of land. Yes, everything is bigger in the West. Like so many resorts, Snowbird/Alta has a top of the line spa as well as several heated pools and hot tubs for all your relaxation needs.

Further afield, there’s a lot to do in Salt Lake: explore the city’s unique Mormon culture at the Church History Museum and Temple Square or hang with some “hipsters” in trendy neighborhoods like 900 South & 900 East. Enjoy great local food and good music at Tin Angel (very kid friendly) or farm to table fare at the Copper Onion.

Park City, home to the Sundance Film Festival, is only an hour or so from Alta, and another fun day trip for the mountain weary. Since it’s so close to Salt Lake City, Snowbird and Alta are an easy plane ride for most travelers, and since SLC is a Delta hub, chances are you’ll be able to score some affordable flights as well.



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The Four Essential Rules Of Re-Gifting

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Christmas, gift, presents The last couple of years have seen a proliferation of made-up shopping holidays, with established standbys like Black Friday and Cyber Monday being joined by the likes of Small Business Saturday and Gift Card Exchange Day.

And we can add another to that list: National Regifting Day.

This "celebration" is the brainchild of Regiftable.com, which was started by Money Management International in 2006 to save people from coming out of the holiday season (and into the new year) in debt.

According to the site, Regifting Day falls on the third Thursday of December (this year, Dec. 20) — the day when the most office holiday parties are held (according to MMI's own "unscientific research").

The idea, we suppose, is that regifting is more socially acceptable when the recipient is a coworker rather than a close friend or family member.

But does regifting really pass the etiquette smell test? No less an authority than "Seinfeld"— the same show that codified the taboo against double-dipping — condemned the practice in the episode "The Label Maker."

And despite MMI's research showing that only 10% of people would feel cheated or angry to receive a regift, we were unsure whether it's truly an acceptable practice during the holidays.

To find out, we spoke to Jodi R.R. Smith of etiquette consultancy Mannersmith. She gave us four basic rules of regifting.

1. The item needs to be new and unopened. "If I get a bottle of perfume, take a sniff, and decide I don't like it, it's no longer eligible for regifting." says Smith.

2. Don't regift just because you didn't like it. "Only give someone a regift if it's something you would have gone to the store and got for the person anyway."

3. The gift should be unwrapped and rewrapped for the new recipient. "I don't want them to find a card addressed to me from my cousin."

4. Avoid a "Seinfeld" scenario. Smith says to avoid situations where worlds could collide — if the original gifter and the new recipient roll in the same social circles, it's best to avoid the potential headache.

Those last two points might make it seem as though regifting is something that should be executed stealthily, but that's not always the case.

"There are times that I do tell people, 'Someone gave this to me, and when I got it, I immediately thought of you,'" says Smith. "But that's for everyday gifts. If I'm giving it for a birthday or holiday, then I'll keep the fact that it's a regift on the QT."

So if you are planning to celebrate National Regifting Day this holiday season, it's probably best to keep quiet about it.

SEE ALSO: 50 must-have holiday gifts for $50 or less >

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See What $250,000 Will Buy In Today's Housing Market

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Each week we take a look at how much house you can expect to get at a specific price point. This week, we’re looking at homes priced around $250,000.

Cedar Rapids, IA

9330 Deer Valley Dr, Cedar Rapids IA
For sale: $249,000

cedar rapids house zillow

Spacious and sitting on more than an acre lot, this Cedar Rapids home is still within a neighborhood with all the amenities. The 2,642-square-foot home has 4 bedrooms and 3 baths.

Hendersonville, TN

151 Mansker Park Dr, Hendersonville TN
For sale: $247,900

Located about 20 minutes outside Nashville, this suburban home in Hendersonville is just over 3,000 square feet with 3 beds and 3 baths.

Kansas City, MO

9808 N Farley Ave, Kansas City MO
For sale: $249,950

In Kansas City, $250,000 gets you 4 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms in a 5,000-square-foot floor plan. This 2007-built home has hardwood floors downstairs and an office.

Marietta, GA

2285 Glenridge Dr, Marietta GA
For sale: $254,900

A brick exterior with black shutters makes for a curb-friendly home for sale in Marietta. Sitting on an acre, the 2,410-square-foot home has 4 bedrooms and 3 baths.

East Hampton, CT

21 Dogwood Dr, East Hampton CT
For sale: $248,000

At the end of a cul-de-sac, this East Hampton home sits on nearly an acre of wooded land. The 4-bedroom, 2-bath home has an additional room that can be used as an office or nursery.

SEE ALSO: The spooky stories behind 10 of America's most famous haunted houses >

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INFOGRAPHIC: Dirty Jobs

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People who have weak stomachs should probably not consider any of the following jobs. These jobs not only have a definite ick factor, most of them don't pay all that well either, unless you happen to be a proctologist.

Emergency medical technicians have one of the dirtiest jobs in the world. They respond to emergencies, provide care to patients and transport the patients to the hospital. Not only is this job dirty, but it is also physically demanding. The average salary for an emergency technician in America is $30,358.
 
Proctologists also have a job that is considered repulsive to many people. They are doctors who diagnose and treat disorders of the colon, anus and rectum. Even though this job is quite nasty, it does pay off in terms of salary. The average salary for a proctologist in America is around $230,000 per year. 

Slaughterhouse workers are individuals who slaughter and disembowel slaughtered livestock. This job is dirty and low-paying. The average salary for a slaughterhouse worker is only $14,000 per year.

If you have ever wondered who picks up the roadkill that you pass on the side of the road, the answer is that this job is done by fairly low-paid employees. Working in adverse weather conditions picking up the remains of animals that have been killed by vehicles, the average roadkill collector brings home about $31,200 annually. But that's substantially more than another of the dirtiest jobs: Parenting. 

Being a parent provides no salary or health benefits, yet exposure to germs among those who perform this work is higher than if they were working in a slaughterhouse. However, parenting comes with its own rewards and perks that no other filthy job can offer.

Dirty Jobs

Infographic Source

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10 Holiday Gifts That Give Back

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red cross emergency shelter

I recently covered 10 Holiday Gifts for $10 or Less, but since the season of giving is upon and and ’tis better to give than to receive, why not consider giving a gift that gives back, too?

Check out 10 feel-good gift ideas >

As consumers reel from an uncertain economy, job losses, and natural disasters, it can be difficult to embrace the concept of holiday shopping when so many members of our communities and others around the world are struggling with basic, everyday needs.

There is a way to clear your conscious from the holiday shopping-induced guilt: Focus on giving gifts that give back. Not only will you feel good about supporting a cause you care about, but the recipient will appreciate the thoughtful and unique gesture.

Not to mention the charity you select benefits as well.

And just so you know, giving back is actually good for you.

According to Naomi Eisenberger, a UCLA assistant professor of psychology, “When people talk about the ways in which social support is good for our health, they typically assume that the benefits of social support come from the support we receive from others, but it now seems likely that some of the health benefits of social support actually come from the support we provide to others.”

Imagine if every gift on your holiday shopping list also gave back to a charity. That sure would result in a lot of feel-good feelings floating around — talk about embracing the holiday spirit!

If you are ready to make your dollars count and spread some extra holiday cheer, here are 10 holiday gifts that give back.

Endangered Animals

WWF Species Adoption – $50 to $250

Give a gift that will help protect the future of nature.

Your symbolic adoption supports WWF’s global efforts to protect wild animals and their habitats.



Military Families

ONEHOPE Wine - $18.99 (for the Zinfandel for military families)

ONEHOPE Wine donates an astounding 50% of its profits to partner charities benefiting a variety of causes.

Their Zinfandel is paired with helping families of fallen troops attend Snowball Express to enhance the quality of life for post 9/11 service members.



Disaster Victims

Emergency Shelter from the American Red Cross – $50

In the wake of Hurricane Sandy, this gift is the perfect way to honor those affected by the storm.

Disaster victims often have to leave their homes with nothing but the clothes on their backs.

Just $50 gift provides urgently needed essentials for one disaster victim, including three meals, two blankets, one cot and personal supplies.



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The Best Places To Ride Out The Mayan Apocalypse

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etna volcano eruption sicily end of the world

So the apocalypse is nigh, according to some.

With the end of the world approaching, as predicted by the Mayan calendar, there has been panic candle buying in Sichuan, China, reassurances issued from Sydney to Moscow, and plenty of tourist dollars made in Mayan parts of Central America as visitors gather for a front row seat of the cataclysm.

Here we round up other apocalypse-themed places and trips around the world...

Bugarach, France

Of course if you really want to scare yourself, then head to this French village in the Pyrenean foothills, which the apocalypse will somehow bypass, internet rumour-mongers would have you believe.

The problem is, it will apparently be closed on December 21, when the alleged end of the world is scheduled to occur.

The flat top mount that is supposed to be the only place left standing will be out of bounds, if the village authorities have their way...



Copan, Honduras

Those going to the nearby Copan on the Guatemala and Honduras border will realise apocalyptic endings are nothing new to Central America, at least when it comes to this beautiful expanse of abandoned temples, once the biggest city state in all of the Americas.

At its busiest and most thriving, the city is thought to have been over farmed and been hit by disease, suffering a rapid demise during the ninth century AD.



Luzon, the Philippines

Apart from its title, the film Apocalypse Now was fraught with a sense of doom.

It was shot on a Philippine island, which doubled as Vietnam.

It was hit by typhoons, and the stars did their best to create an apocalyptic atmosphere, with some of the lead actors strung out on drugs.

The stress of the shoot even led to Martin Sheen having a heart attack.

“The horror, the horror,” as Kurtz says.



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South Koreans Plan Massive, Bizarre Dating Game On Christmas Eve

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south korean couple

Tens of thousands of lovelorn South Koreans are set to take part in a "battle of the singles" on Christmas Eve -- a mass dating event triggered by an innocuous query posted on Facebook last month.

More than 36,000 people have signed up for the event in a park in central Seoul since two young men jokingly floated the idea on the social networking site and met with an overwhelming response.

"We only asked 'What do you plan to do on Christmas Eve?' and people started to leave thousands of comments that they were single and miserable and had nothing to do," Justin Chanwook Jang, one of the two organisers, told AFP.

"So we suggested this idea to help lonely singles find love on Christmas Eve ... we never imagined it would grow this big," said 29-year-old Jang, who plans to participate himself.

Some businesses have decided to enter into the spirit of things by allowing single employees the day off on Christmas Eve which falls on Monday, and around 200 firms have offered to sponsor the event.

The rules of "the battle" are simple.

Women must dress in red and men in white and all gather at the park, which sits on an island in the Han River that bisects the capital.

The two groups will stand facing each other a few metres apart until the event starts at 3:00pm (0600 GMT) -- then run towards a potential date and grab his or her hands.

Those who manage to get a date are encouraged to post photos taken with their new partners on the event's Facebook page.

It remains to be seen how many of those who signed up will actually attend, but Jang is confident.

"I'm witnessing how social networking sites can help a tiny idea grow so big and so quickly ... it's overwhelming," he said, adding that more than 200 people had volunteered to act as stewards.

When it became clear just how many people might turn up, the organisers informed the police and asked them to help monitor the event.

News of the "battle" has been publicised on major Korean Internet sites and Twitter, with a flood of postings expressing both excitement, scepticism and concern.

"This will be a scene we all must watch ... a horde of men chasing after women to grab their hands and girls frantically running away," tweeted @ksmfilm.

"My only concern is white is not my colour. I'll pretend that I'm sick on that day so that I can leave work early," said one anonymous commentator.

One Facebook user warned that the mass event was an open invitation to sexual harassment and pickpockets.

The concept has spread outside Seoul and similar "battle of the singles" have been arranged in several other cities.

Some businesses, perhaps scenting a free marketing opportunity, have decided to embrace the event.

K2 Korea, a Seoul sportswear company, has offered all single employees a paid holiday, provided them with red and white jackets to wear on the battle day, and even promised a cash prize to those who find a date.

"About 70 of our 300 workers are without partners ... we wanted them to have the holiday in a happier mood so that they can eventually work better," a K2 spokeswoman told AFP.

Seoul online matchmaking site operator I-Um Socius also offered a day off to its employees -- most of whom are young and unmarried.

Jang, who is hoping to interest Guinness World Records in what he hopes may turn into the world's biggest dating event, said he had been approached by a company in New York to organise a similar event in Manhattan next Christmas.

Out of a population of some 50 million, South Korea -- one of the world's most-wired nations -- has 31 million smartphone users and nearly 20 million users of either Facebook or Twitter.

But virtual social connection is not necessarily translating into physical partnerships, as a slowing economy and financial constraints cause many young people to put off the idea of marriage or opt to live alone.

According to Statistics Korea, 404,931 couples got married in 1990 across the country. By 2011 the figure had fallen by nearly 20 percent to 329,087.

The country's fertility rate stood at 1.2 percent in 2009 -- the lowest among members of the Organisation of Economic Cooperation and Development -- before inching up to 1.23 in 2010.

That, combined with growing life expectancy, means South Korea has one of the world's most rapidly-aging societies -- a trend that will have profound economic implications in the decades ahead.

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Chinese Nobel Laureate Is Getting Heat For Wearing A Western Suit

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mo yan

CHINESE author Mo Yan travelled last week to Sweden to collect the 2012 Nobel Prize in Literature. The decision to give the award to Mr Mo (whose real name is Guan Moye; his pen name means “Does not Speak”) has not been without controversy. After the announcement of his triumph, Mr Mo came in for a round of criticism from fellow writers and intellectuals, including many who feel that he is too cosy with the Chinese government.

In the recent past Mr Mo has spoken out in support of Liu Xiaobo, the winner of the 2010 Nobel Peace Prize who has been jailed intermittently since 1989 and serving an 11-year sentence since 2009. But since arriving in Stockholm, Mr Mo has also made several statements attempting to justify Chinese censorship laws as being necessary security measures, along the lines of having X-ray scanners at airports. Such statements will hardly mollify Mr Mo's critics at home and abroad.

There has also been a kerfuffle over Mr Mo’s choice of wardrobe. Two weeks ago the author’s brother disclosed that Mr Mo was having a dinner jacket made for the award ceremony. “Netizens” called on Mr Mo to eschew Western garb in favour of something in keeping with traditional Chinese culture. Photoshopped images of Mr Mo in different styles of dress began popping up on the internet, as the netizens debated just which kind of sartorial statement Mr Mo should make at the ceremony itself on December 10th.

Ultimately—some might even say characteristically—Mr Mo has decided to try and please all parties. In addition to the now notorious dinner jacket (pictured, above, during the reception), the author also brought along that sartorial relic: the Mao suit.

It was Sun Yat-sen who popularised the iconic high-collared tunic with four external pockets which foreigners tend to associate with Chairman Mao: in China it is known as the “Sun Yat-sen Suit”. Originally it was a compromise between an idea of modernity, as represented by the Western suit, and yet in keeping with the pragmatic virtues and austere style that characterised the ideals of early Chinese revolutionaries. It became an emblem of Chinese Communist functionaries—and James Bond’s enemies—in the Cold War era. With the exception of the dapper outfits worn by Zhou Enlai on his trips abroad, most of China’s civilian leaders opted for the proletarian simplicity of the Mao suit. One of the few known instances in which Mao appeared in public wearing Western dress happened during his visits to the Soviet Union, in 1949 and 1957. On those occasions the Chairman looked distinctly uncomfortable, in a frumpy overcoat and fedora.

Not until the 1980s would China’s leaders start opening their closets and reforming their wardrobes. One of the first to adopt the bourgeois Western uniform of suit-and-tie was Hu Yaobang. A protégé of Deng Xiaoping and one of the most liberal members of his inner circle, Hu once suggested the elimination of chopsticks and the adoption of forks and knives. (Suffice it to say, the idea did not stick.)

In recent years, the Mao suit was relegated to use on special occasions, major events, or when top leaders appeared with their military counterparts. Hu Jintao donned a Mao suit for the parade and festivities that marked the 60th anniversary of the founding of the PRC. Earlier this month, Xi Jinping had to pose for photographs as the new head of the Central Military Commission, the Party’s top military post. Standing among officers in crisp service uniforms, he chose a simple black Mao suit in place of his standard navy blue (Western) suit.

If clothes make the man, we might also say that in China clothes make the modern. Officials from the Han ethnic majority dress in Western suits, while minority delegates are encouraged to wear traditional costumes, upon which they are praised for their “colourful” and “representative” attire. Little thought is given to why Han Chinese delegates tenders dress like they are heading to insurance-sales conventions in Omaha or Dusseldorf. Of course it is Western-style clothing and fashions that dominate the malls and high streets of Beijing. Asked why people prefer Western forms of dress, one young professional says that traditional Chinese outfits were outdated and unfashionable. When he wore a Mao suit to a choir competition in high school, he recalls, his teachers faulted him for looking like a farmer.

There are signs that tastes may be changing. A young woman working in Beijing says that at formal occasions she prefers Chinese-style dresses. But to dress that way day-to-day, nowadays, would be both expensive and difficult.

While the choice of attire may seem a trivial matter, the controversy over Mo Yan’s formal wear reflects a larger conundrum. In a country where the concept of what is foreign is so often conflated with what is modern, how to represent a modernity that is distinctly Chinese?

(Picture credit: AFP)

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The City Of Zurich Admits To Losing 5,000 Works Of Art

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corbusier art

Switzerland's largest city Zurich acknowledged Monday it had lost trace of 5,176 works of art, including an original painting by Swiss-born architect Le Corbusier.

The city had carried out its first full inventory of its vast collection of 35,000 pieces in nearly a century, only to discover that nearly 15 percent were missing, including nearly 1,400 original works, it said in a statement.

It stressed though that it expected to find most of the missing artwork.

"The collection moves about," Urs Spinner, a spokesman for Zurich's construction department, told the ATS news agency, pointing out that the city's art was spread across more than 500 locations, including schools, hospitals and offices.

The total value of the collection has been estimated at around 121 million Swiss francs ($130 million, 100 million euros), but the city stressed that the missing artwork only accounted for a fraction of that amount.

The unidentified painting by Le Corbusier had, according to ATS, been purchased for 80,000 francs, while the remainder of the missing original works had been insured for just one million francs, the Zurich statement said.

SEE ALSO: Rich And Famous People Who Destroyed Their Expensive Toys

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A French Chef's Guide To The Best Pâtisseries In Paris

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buche de noel golden lenotre

For fans of cakes and confectionery, Baking Mad pastry chef Eric Lanlard gives his guide to the best patisseries in Paris.

I don’t have a sweet tooth but, for me growing up, the most exciting part of the week was going to the patisserie because it was so glamorous and exciting.

Any village in France will have at least one or two patisseries and, mostly on Sundays, people will go and buy some cakes for the family or for guests.

The patisseries are like jewelery shops, with beautiful interiors, and when you go to a patisserie in France it’s almost like going to Louis Vuitton or Prada to buy an expensive handbag or jewellery.

Service is sophisticated, everyone’s smartly dressed; it feels special.

And that atmosphere is expected – people are prepared to spend a lot of money on cakes and they understand how much work is involved. It’s a highly rated profession.

In France, the people behind the patisserie counter do an apprenticeship for two years to sell cakes. They’re not students doing it part time or just doing it for pocket money – that’s their career. People sometimes call me a baker but I’m a pastry chef and they’re completely different disciplines.

There’s a rivalry between bakers and pastry chefs. Pastry chefs consider themselves alchemists and think bakers just mix flour and water. When I was an apprentice if I created a cake and it wasn’t a good job my boss would say: “That’s the work of a baker.”

In my shop, Cake Boy in London, I see British customers are more hesitant to spend that much on cakes and they’re not as open-minded as the French are. It can be tempting to just choose a cheesecake but there are lots of options out there.

Paris is a good place to discover patisseries at their best because it’s where the most innovative and glamorous brands are based. The interiors can be incredibly beautiful and the experience feels so indulgent but it’s not inaccessible.

Going to a patisserie in Paris is more relaxed than going to a restaurant and usually it’s very relaxed and friendly – it’s not like going to a restaurant or brassiere.

La Patisserie des Réves, 93 rue du Bac & 111 rue de Longchamp

La Patisserie des Réves Paris

This is the most innovative patisserie in Paris. It’s a totally different patisserie concept to what’s come before it. The cakes are beautiful and avant-garde, so even if you buy something traditional, like an éclair, the shape and topping will be different. It’s not an éclair as you know it – it’s special.

Many Parisian patisseries have huge displays of cakes but in La Patisserie des Réves there’s just one table on show, with a small selection of maybe six to eight individual cakes placed on it. They’re all stored under glass domes that are lifted by pulleys and a staff member is positioned by the table so they can tell you about the cakes you’re looking at.

If you want a closer look they can lift up the domes by using the pulleys and the effect is dramatic and extravagant and theatrical. Once you choose a cake you’re given a receipt and you go to a counter in the back of the shop.

There’s a shutter door there and your cake is delivered from the kitchen – they keep just one cake in the display area and the others are stored in a special freezer so they’re as fresh as can be. It's quite cool.

Ladurée, 75 avenue des Champs Elysées

laduree shop macarons

Ladurée has branches all over the world now but the original one is still the best one. It doesn’t matter if you open in Harrods or wherever and you try to recreate the original décor and atmosphere – you can’t beat the real one on the Champs-Élysées.

If you’re shopping in the area it’s the best place to stop to have a tea or a coffee and it’s what you expect from an old patisserie – quite dark, all wood; it looks like something which has been for 100 years, which is the case. Once inside you have to queue to choose your cakes and the staff members spend hours explaining everything to you.

Then you join another queue and have to pay to get your cakes, then you have to queue again to collect your cakes, which have been wrapped beautifully. The whole experience is time-consuming but fantastic and they’ve got a salon de thé, a modern bar and upstairs there’s a private dining room.

Despite its age and heritage the patisserie is still very innovative. It’s got an old location but with very modern cakes. It shows what a patisserie should be and it’s a good place to stop for champagne and cakes.

Patisserie Stohrer, 51 rue Montorgueil

anthares cake patisserie stohrer paris

L'Antares from Patisserie Stohrer, a cake made of pistachio macaron, pistachio mousseline cream and fresh raspberries

Patisserie Stohrer is the oldest patisserie in Paris. It’s tiny and the cakes they do there are very classic, almost to the point of being baker-style cakes. If you’re French their cakes bring back memories of childhood because they sell the kinds of cakes we used to have years ago.

Their specialty has always been the Rum Baba. There isn’t too much going on in terms of how they’re decorated and so on, but they’re very, very good. In contrast, the interior of the shop is decorated like Versailles. It’s full of paintings and it’s all gilded. The ceiling looks like a ballroom ceiling and it’s all a bit flamboyant.

Pierre Hermé, throughout Paris

box of macarons pierre herme

Foie gras macarons

Pierre Hermé revolutionised the traditional French patisserie, he was one of the first young chefs to give a breath of fresh air to the industry. The French can be a bit stuck in their ways but he challenged how things were done. He used to be the head chef of Fauchon patisserie and that’s where he built his reputation.

Now he’s famous worldwide and he’s still very edgy in what he does. He has a few shops in Paris and they’re definitely edgy too; they’re scary to visit because they’re quite sterile and clinical and the girls behind the counter are immaculate and wear four-inch stilettos.

You’d never dare to say a bad word in that patisserie because you know you’d be told off. It feels special there and people pay a premium for that – you could spend €100 on one cake there.

Fauchon, Place de la Madeline

fauchon macarons

Fauchon is a French institution – it’s the best food hall in the French capital. The patisserie department is fantastic, with very innovative cakes that come in weird shapes and flavours. It’s all about luxury and indulgence there and the service is out of this world.

I am quite happy sitting outside and watching the world pass by; the area’s quite chic and there’s plenty to see. My favourite thing to order is the chocolate éclair with an imprint of Mona Lisa’s eyes on it. Fabulous!

Lenôtre, throughout Paris

cake lenotre

The late Gaston Lenôtre was the Godfather of French patisserie and started a big cookery school. His innovative style and his desire to share his passion made him a respected chef in France and abroad and, after his death in 2009, there are still a number of his shops to be found all over Paris. If you want to buy some good-quality cakes the selection isn’t as extreme as some of the others, in terms of decoration, but the quality is excellent. He has left a wonderful legacy.

Inspired by Parisian patisseries, Eric Lanlard's I Love Paris afternoon tea is available at Jumeirah Carlton Tower hotel at Cadogan Place, London until December 31. As part of his ongoing partnership with the property, Eric Lanlard will man a pop-up Cake Boy cake shop in the hotel's GILT cocktail lounge from 11am-4pm on December 14 and 15.

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10 Reasons Millennials Might Abandon Big Cities

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excite young success

The hot pursuit of young professionals has been at the core of American cities' urban revival for more than a decade. It worked. They came, they played, they stayed.

An urban renaissance unfolded as the number of people living in America's downtowns soared, construction of condos and loft apartments boomed and once-derelict neighborhoods thrived. In many of the largest cities in the most-populous metropolitan areas, downtown populations grew at double-digit rates from 2000 to 2010, according to the Census.

Now, cities face a new demographic reality:

The young and single are aging and having children. If the pattern of the past 50 years holds, they might soon set their sights on suburbia. 

The oldest of Millennials turn 30 this year and they're ready to start families

The stakes are high because the oldest of 86 million Millennials are turning 30 this year, a time when many marry and start families. This giant demographic wave is even larger than the 77 million-strong Baby Boomers that have dominated social and cultural trends for decades.

"This Millennial generation is the generation that decides where it's going to live before it decides what it's going to do," says William Fulton, president of policy and research at Smart Growth America, a non-profit national coalition against suburban sprawl. "The stakes are very high."



Young people are most likely to move at the drop of a hat

"We know young people move the most," says Richard Florida, whose book The Rise of the Creative Class published 10 years ago helped spark the wooing of young professionals to revive declining urban centers. "So capturing people early on in their lives in a metro really matters. It's important to compete with suburbs for people once they get a little older and have children."

The older they get, the less likely people are to live in cities, according to recent Census data. The peak age for urban living is 25 to 27, when 20 percent of that age group are nestled in urban centers. By the age of 41, about a quarter have moved to the suburbs.



Millennials are no longer interested in the "extended dorm life" of big city living

Cities endured decades of shrinking populations fueled by an exodus of young and old who found refuge from crime, racial tension and poverty in suburbia. When cities began to invest in their neighborhoods with new housing and rail systems and lured entrepreneurs, the turnaround happened. Cities don't want to see the pattern reverse again.

"Cities began renewal efforts by offering a young adult-focused lifestyle," says Robert Lang, urban affairs professor at the University of Nevada-Las Vegas. "It was like an extension of dorm life after college. Cities assumed that they would get to the business of improving schools and providing more family services later. Well, now it's later."



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10 NYC Bars Where You Can Admire Famous Art While You Drink

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society of illustrators barThis post originally appeared at Untapped Cities.

At Untapped New York, we’re dedicated to bringing you the best of New York’s cultural life and nightlife.

Previously, we shared our picks for the best hidden bars in the City.

Now we’re bringing your our list of the Top 10 Bars where artists have left their mark, from Upper East Side institutions like Bemelmans Bar and the King Cole Bar in the St. Regis to the trendy Ace Hotel, with a collage by street artist Michael Anderson.

Though a couple of cocktails at some of these bars might be a bit of a splurge, we think it’s worth it for the chance to soak up the atmosphere in these one-of-a-kind places.

After all, you won’t find these works of art anywhere else in the world.

Bemelmans Bar

In exchange for one and a half years of room and board for himself and his family, Ludwig Bemelmans painted the walls at the Hotel Carlyle Bar in 1947.

As a result, the bar was renamed Bemelmans Bar.

The murals depict Central Park throughout the seasons with a cameo by Madeline.

Bemelmans Bar is located at 35 East 76th Street in the Hotel Carlyle.

The bar has an entertainment calendar that is worth checking out, including performances by Woody Allen & The Eddy Davis New Orleans Jazz Band (yes, that Woody Allen).

Alternatively, if you have children, or for the child in you, perhaps the bar’s Madeline’s Buffet is more appropriate.

Whether you are going to Bemelmans Bar to see jazz or to have a cocktail, you will be rewarded with Ludwig Bemelman’s only public work of art.



Murals on 54

Murals on 54 is located in the Warkwick Hotel’s former Raleigh Room, both of whose names were derived from Dean Cornwell’s works of art.

In 1937, publisher and Citizen Kane, William Randolph Hearst, commissioned Dean Cornwell to paint a mural for the restaurant at the Warwick Hotel, which he owned.

Cornwell painted the 1584 scene of Sir Walter Raleigh receiving his charter from Queen Elizabeth I and Raleigh landing at the lost colony of Roanoke.

Cornwell and Hearst reached a barter agreement for the murals. However, their agreement is a lesson in why one should never barter with an artist.

As a result of a dispute which arose from the agreement, Cornwell painted, what one journalist at the time described as “one of the most colorful spots in the City.”

Cornwell’s revenge art included a depiction of a man urinating on the Queen, another man urinating on Sir Walter Raleigh, and an American Indian without his pants.

Cornwell and Hearst eventually worked out their differences and Cornwell painted over one of his colorful additions. As a result of the controversy surrounding Cornwell’s creativity, the mural on the left side of the restaurant was covered for more than forty years.

The murals were recently restored and add to the ambiance of the restaurant.

Dean Cornwell was chosen by Hearst because of his reputation and his abilities. He was known as the Dean of American Illustrators.

Born in 1892, Cornwell worked his way through magazine illustrations (for Cosmopolitan, Harper’s Bazaar, and Good Housekeeping) before becoming the President of the Society of Illustrators in 1922.

In the late 1920s, Cornwell began his career as a muralist. His commissions graced the Los Angeles Public Library,  the Detroit Athletic Club, Rockefeller Center, New York’s General Motors Building at the 1939 World’s Fair,  the Bethlehem Steel Company, the New England Telephone headquarters building in Boston, and  The 21 Club.

Cornwell died in 1960, but his work is still coveted. The Warwick Hotel was approached by The Museum of Modern Art, who wanted to purchase Cornwell’s murals for $100,000. Patrons at Murals on 54 are lucky the hotel declined the museum’s offer.



The Leopard at Des Artistes

The Leopard occupies the storied space at 1 West 67th Street, that once housed Café des Artistes in the 1917 George Mort Pollard Gothic designed Hotel des Artistes.

It was said to be the largest studio building in the world, when it was completed, and was the fifth studio building on the block.

The Café des Artistes was created to provide meals for residents of the Hotel des Artistes, many of whose apartments had no kitchens, but who would buy their own ingredients for the chefs to prepare.

In the 1920s, American illustrator, and Hotel des Artistes resident, Howard Chandler Christy, painted a series of nine murals, entitled “Fantasy Scenes with Naked Beauties,” on the walls of the restaurant.

In August 2009, Café des Artistes closed and in May 2011, The Leopard opened.



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One Chinese Ghost Town Has Turned Into A Skateboarder's Paradise

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The term “ghost town” has various meanings in different parts of the world. Most often, it’s a town that lived and died with a boom-and-bust cycle, or as a result of catastrophe.

In China, however, ghost towns like Ordos City were built for people who never lived there to begin with.

China’s ghost towns are known for more than their lack of people.

These huge developments were envisioned by the government as blank canvasses for architects, their visions brought to life in contoured brick, marble ledges, and wide expanses of smooth tile.

In other words, the Chinese government built the biggest, most elegant skate parks in the world.

Before you pack a board and some tight jeans and move to Ordos City, it’s good to understand what you’re getting yourself into.

“Kids are like, ‘Let’s move there. It’s a skate paradise!’” director Charles Lanceplaine says about the reaction to his newest skate film, Ordos. “But there’s nothing to do there. There are no restaurants or anything. There’s one night club. We tried to go but no one was there.”

I understand their unchecked enthusiasm. When I watched skaters popping off swooping brick sculptures surrounded by wide-open expanses of totally unpopulated concrete, I started to check airfare myself. 

SEE ALSO: A Tour Of China's Most Famous Ghost City

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Women Expect Men To Spend Half Their Weekly Income On Gifts

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girl opening present hermes smiling

When it comes to holiday gifts, is it the thought that counts? Or does the value of the gift have to do more with the price tag attached to the present?

new study published in the U.K.’s Daily Mail shows that women want their partners to spend about half a week’s salary on their holiday gifts, while men only want to receive gifts that cost roughly a third of a week’s salary.

The average salary for men in Britain is £30,852 annually–or roughly $49,415, in U.S. dollars. Looking at the weekly take-home pay for this salary, women are expecting gifts worth almost $475. (Guess they didn’t hear the news that 87% of holiday shoppers plan to spend less on gifts this year.)

What’s more, the Daily Mail reports that women have their hearts set on designer goods like Burberry coats and Louboutin heels–luxury items whose price tags run even higher than $475.

In comparison, men are expecting slightly less expensive presents in the ballpark of $250, based on the average woman’s salary in the U.K.

If these “expected” amounts work for your holiday budget–and won’t send you into debt–then fantastic! But remember: Holiday giving is no excuse for sinking into credit card debt. (Find out the nine best to worst ways to pay for holiday gifts.)

For affordable presents and under-$100 designer goods, check out LearnVest’s gift guide for everyone on your list.

WANT MORE?

20 Best and Budget-Friendly Gift Websites 

The 5 Love Languages of Gift Giving

Will a Dell XPS From LearnVest and Techlicious!

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Finally: The Answers To 7 Awkward Money Questions

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networking, girl, awkward, staring, drinking

Recently, I made lunch plans with a woman whose son is the same age as mine.

We picked a restaurant with a large outdoor area the kids could play in without bugging other customers. Coincidentally, I had a PTA discount card that gives me 10 percent off food and drinks at the place.

Saving 10 percent for doing nothing other than pulling a card out of my wallet seemed like a no-brainer, except I was worried I would look cheap for busting out my savings card in front of a woman I barely knew.

Sticking to a budget and having a social life isn’t always easy, so I asked etiquette experts to weigh in on seven tricky money situations.

Is it OK to use a coupon on a date?

When a similar topic was discussed at Budgets Are Sexy, commenters were really divided, from people who thought it was off-putting to others who appreciated the idea of a budget-savvy date.

Kate Forest, a relationship counselor and coach at Master Matchmakers, says flat-out no to using a coupon. “Money, like religion and politics, is one of those topics best avoided when you are first getting to know someone, whether that’s a someone you might have a romantic relationship with or even a new friend,” Forest says. “You shouldn’t have to act like you don’t care about money, but neither should you act like you care too much.”

She says using a two-for-one blooming onion coupon will make you seem too money-focused. Keep the deal in your pocket until you’re out with a dear old friend who couldn’t care less whether you use it or not (and may in fact like a big plate of greasy, delicious, fried onion-ness, too!).

Dating on a budget? Forest suggests planning inexpensive outings like eating at a fun restaurant that won’t be too pricey (dim sum, anyone?), bringing coffee and taking your dogs to a dog park or touring a local winery where the tasting is free and then having lunch afterward. “I think the other person is more impressed by the thought and planning that goes into a date rather than the check at the end,” Forest says.



It’s date number two, and you’ve ordered too much. Can you ask for a doggie bag?

Nope, says Forest. “The biggest reason to not ask for a doggie bag is that you should have your hands free on a date. Even on an early date, there is opportunity for holding hands or lightly touching the other person,” which won’t happen if you’re toting a Styrofoam container around with you.

Vicky Oliver, author of The Millionaire’s Handbookdisagrees, saying she’s started taking leftover food from restaurants because she hates the idea of wasting so much. “It’s just so much better food than anything I could make at home, and the portions are ginormous!” Oliver says. She adds that as long as you’re polite to the waiter, cute about your request or make a joke with your companion like, “I wish I were a chef, but I’m definitely not,” there shouldn’t be an issue with it. “We need to get out of our shame and embarrassment. Frugal is in fashion, and it can be all in the way you try to make it fun.”

Both experts agree: You cannot take other people’s food home (which, bizarrely, happened to one of Forest’s clients on a first date.)



What if your co-workers eat out every Friday and start asking why you won’t join them?

Brown bagging it is cheaper, but outside-work excursions “are sometimes the glue that holds these relationships together,” Oliver explains.

Skipping after-work drinks or the weekly pizza lunch makes you seem as if “you’re not fun and not friendly.”

Go, says Oliver. “If it gets to be prohibitively expensive, maybe you can suggest a cheaper venue, but you don’t want to be standoffish.”

Consider it an investment in your career.



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